I learned so much this trip. The Mississippi Delta is different from the Mississippi River Delta – that is completely in Lousiana, south of New Orleans.
The Delta is from Memphis to Vicksburg. It was part of our driving trip – I am so glad we drove and didn’t just view it from a river cruise.
Entering Mississippi, and yes, both Jazz and the blues are Americas’ music born and developed here. As we crossed the border there was a huge fireworks market place – I bet they get most of their business from Memphis.
On to Clarksdale, we had watched the episode about the Delta with Someone Feed Phill. He eats way too much, my stomach aches halfway through. But lets see what he recommends. Joel wrote down the names of the restaurants. Problem is, we arrived in Clarksdale too early – and the BBQ joint started by a Lebanese immigrant wasn’t open yet. Ok, so lets drive to the downtown. A very sad worn down area.
This was news to me, but then I’m not a big music followers.
Another wonderful old sign, old streetlamp and yes, old decaying building.
We were hungry and this is what the alleys of downtown Clarksdale look like. But then I heard music, hmm, this is why we walked into the back alley. Not only music, but a cafe! Win!
Under a typical corrugated iron roof, a Blues band is playing. They also sold T-shirts and music. Btw, the best music I heard during all of the trip. Not ear blasting loud. The song actually had a story to tell about a guy who wants to help out a woman who has been wronged by her man – as in – she chose the wrong guy.
The waitress, she looks much older than me, my guess is she is actually younger. The whole Delta is mostly black, with some old white people left. I’m sure that is an over simplification – but even Phill mentioned that in his show. People were super kind. These days the Delta is cotton and gambling.
I wanted to stop at two pottery workshops, but it being Sunday, both were closed. Driving beyond the main road into the little downs showed nice communities – I didn’t see the abject poverty people talk about in the south. Not saying it’s not there, but I didn’t see it.
More of that alley, trust me to find beauty in the decay.
In general, I really dislike graffiti, who knows, maybe in this case they were asked to paint this. That is what I’m going with. And maybe I’m just too old to know what this represents.
I know the Virgin of Guadalupe when I see her. Those roses are a sure giveaway. So I went to check about the Mexican population here. First of all – there are shootings in town, not surprising, but it is a small town. Second of all, a number of Mexican restaurants – so they have moved here for work. No, I was not going to try a Mexican restaurant in Mississippi. I’m that kind of snob.
Leah