Downtown at Night

This month is Last Remaining Seats at the Los Angeles Conservancy, so I’ve been downtown a lot at night. This time I’ve even brought my good camera.P1090967The Globe theater is no longer a theater and can never be one again, the floor was leveled years ago, these stores next door are what used to populate Broadway, and slowly will be moving away and replaced by upper scale shops.  I don’t know what is in this store front now, but they went out of their way to reinstall the original marquee.P1090969At dusk the neon is lit. The Rialto is also no longer a theater. This is the kind of store that is filling the store fronts on Broadway.P1090971The Orpheum with the lights on.P1090981Oops they need to fix the M.P1090982This is one I should frame, I love the reflection, the street sign and the advertisement for the Bill Graham show.P1090985The neon really sings at night.P1090987The Palace, which was the original Orpheum.

DTLA at night is very lively on weekend, the great changes that come with revitalization.

Leah

Eastern Columbia building

Eastern columbia buildingMy Art Deco tour ends at this building, on the corner of 9th and Broadway. One of the most beautiful Art Deco buildings, or any style of building for that matter in LA.Eastern Columbia BuildingDid you know that many buildings actually own the sidewalks?  They do, and in many cases are generous enough to let the city/public use them. Back in the 1930s they often decorated them, here in colored Terrazzo, including the name of the building.Eastern Columbia buildingWhat it is really known for, aside from the blue and turquoise terra cotta is the four sided clock tower.  This clock tower rises 114 ft about the height limit for buildings in Los Angeles. (Limit of 150 ft was in place until 1959), 114 ft billboard, the space couldn’t be rented out, it could house elevator or air-conditioning equipment, but had to remain empty otherwise.So between the height and the color, this building really stood out on the skyline of downtown.Eastern Columbia buildingToday the building is getting crowded in by new construction. I used to park in that parking lot, but now with the fencing around it, they are already digging for foundations for a very tall building.  New construction in downtown is happening on every parking lot.  So I had to rush and get as many images as possible.P1070006Images like this are still possible, but very soon, it won’t be empty blue sky in the background.P1090742It will be glimpses through alleyways.1913564_188921264041_816896_nThis is all you can see from across Broadway, impressive, but missing the pyramid.  P1090738Side view. The clock says Eastern on all sides. The building was built by Adolph Sieroty, a Polish Jew who arrived in California in 1892 along with his brothers and cousins. He was 16 at the time. Together they started the Eastern Clock company – which sold appliances, home furnishings and clocks. By 1894 (Adolph is 18) he moves to Los Angeles, and opens another store – Columbia – this one selling soft goods, clothes, linens and other such household items.1913564_188921249041_3020968_nThe two businesses did very well, by the late 1920’s Adolph decided to build a flagship store and headquarters. The stores would remain separate but he would combine the business side, buying, shipping and such.

The building would not only have the colored terra cotta (Gladding McBean) but real gold and copper.  In 1929 prices, he paid  $25,000 for the gold alone. The copper has oxidized to somewhat match the tile.IMG_4334One reason for all the details is to give work to people during the depression. He hired the Architect Claud Beelman who had already built many of downtowns Art Deco office buildings. IMG_4337Most of the gold is used in the entrance. The vestibule is two stories high with an incredible sunburst.  I need a better picture, the band above the door is embossed with the date the company started, 1892, the date this building was completed, 1930 as well as the name of Adolph himself.IMG_4338Great detail was given to the terrazzo chevrons here.  During the 25 years that the two stores occupied the building, there was a long hallway that ran the length of the building, The Eastern was on one side and the Columbia on the other, so shoppers could easily go from one to another.IMG_4373I am rarely downtown at night so to get this images is a treat. Ten years ago the building was converted to loft apartments and is one of the most successful residential buildings downtown. I have been fortunate to visit two of them. The apartments themselves are very spare – of course each owner can do as they wish, but initially you are given concrete walls and floors.  Yes, Johnny Depp does own four of the lofts on the penthouse level.  People who live in the buiding have confirmed seeing him in the elevator.  Another improvement is that now the clock tower is being used. A pool, jacuzzi and workout room are up on the roof.

I think it was 18 years ago that I interviewed here for a textile job, the building had a very different feel at the time, as did the whole area. Change is always happening,  although no longer the tallest building at this end of Broadway, it is still a gorgeous, well loved, well used landmark in downtown.

New addition, got those photos I was missing.Eastern Columbia BuildingP1090972

Leah

DTLA off the beaten track

I finished my Downtown Renaissance tour and I was looking down 5th st, there was a lot of activity there, so I headed on east.

I recently heard someone say, the best camera is the one you have on you, I had my phone and the pictures are not bad.IMG_0017Two years ago the King Edward Hotel was bought, cleaned up and now is low income housing.  Low income in America is not like anywhere else in the world. Notice an air conditioner and a cable TV satellite.

As to the store ONSOMESHIT, interesting name, check the link, this is BMX clothing. You know skateboarders? I guess BMX is doing crazy stuff on bicycles. IMG_0018Oldest dive bar in the area King Eddy Saloon has new owners, but is still a dive. No I didn’t check it out inside.IMG_0019Engine 23 of course is no longer a fire station, it also appears to no longer be in use. I hope someone saves the building, meanwhile a cat.IMG_0023This is what Broadway looked like 10 years ago. Now there is a whole movement to bring back Broadway, so all of these kind of vendors have moved east, into what was skid row. IMG_0026Los Angeles street was the edge of Skid row, there were always businesses here,  mostly garment businesses.  One place I have to visit is B.Black and Sons, Best purveyor of wools and tailoring supplies around. It is just beyond this photo. Today many of the businesses are these kind, and the shoppers are here in drove.IMG_0032I don’t think this is still a viable business, I do love the sign.IMG_0028I don’t know when this mural was painted, although this area is still sketchy, Skid row has moved a little further east to San Julian St.  and San Pedro St. where the missions and other homeless services are located. Notice how advertising and businesses are now crowding out the mural.IMG_0027This looks like someone had to get everything in on one building, from Buddha, Wicked, Andre the Giant, Day of the Dead and even some Native American messages.IMG_0022City Hall peeking out behind this interesting mural.Two Japanese women mural, Los Angeles St. DTLAA closer look. I’m trying to find information about this but can’t find anything yet. This is clearly about the old and new generation of Japanese women. (the mural is not far from little Tokyo). I love the dialogue between the two.IMG_0029Then there are the murals that simply remind me of a quilt, I wonder if the artist is aware of the block, Trip around the world.IMG_0036One more cat, this green one just popped up in Pershing Square, don’t know if it’s just temporary.

Leah

More West Adams

My introduction to this neighbor hood was 24 years ago when I first arrived in LA. I met a woman (I don’t remember her name) who was also a sewer. She and her husband bought a Victorian in this neighborhood. Growing up in Israel I hadn’t been in a Victorian home. I went to visit her in ‘that scary neighborhood’. At this time people were just beginning to buy and refurbish old homes. Shortly thereafter she divorced and moved to Reno, but I always have a soft spot for West Adams.waha13During the depression, people sold homes to whomever they could – despite covenants that forbad selling to non Whites. This is the period when Hattie McDaniel bought her home, later to be involved with the Supreme Court case that banned such covenants. By the 1960’s the First A.M.E. church was looking to build a very large new building. They chose this site (in my previous post you may have noticed Cecil Murray circle – named for the famous pastor of this church). Build in the Mid Century style and designed by the very famous architect Paul R. Williams.waha14Across Adams Blvd is the Church built by the original mansion owners in the area.  At the time with was a Methodist Church, today, fitting for the neighborhood it is the Greater Page TempleWaha17Brick was a common building material until the Long Beach earthquake of 1932, demanded earthquake suitable building materials.waha19The original sanctuary is the social hall today.  In big commercial buildings downtown skylights are ornate, here they are simply functional.

Judson Studio glass Greater Page Temple
Judson Studio glass Greater Page Temple
waha18100 year old Wolf Stove
100 year old Wolf Stove

The original kitchen is still in use, with a Wolf stove from 1913, old, much used and still very functional. I wonder if the Wolf company is aware of this treasure that is in no need of being replaced.The new sanctuary is ornate yet dark, so all I was able to get was these wonderful stained glass windows.judson studio glassMade by our friends at Judson Studioswaha22Other things of interest as I walked around, the gate to an old apartment building on the corner of Adams and Hobart.waha24A cute old bench for a child.waha20This may be a Halloween decoration but I guess it was never taken down.waha21Speaking of holidays, if you plant Your Chirstmas Poinsettia outside, you get a beautiful bush that adds a lot of color to the yard. If you live in Mexico or SoCal, I doubt this will survive in cold climates.

Leah

West Adams Heights

Always on the lookout for interesting things to do in Los Angeles. As soon as I saw the home tour in West Adams Heights I jumped on the opportunity.PicMonkey PhotoFirst the Rindge Mansion, the corner stone of this area.  More about this home later. WahaMy first stop is the Beckett Residence.  Built in 1905, these are the kind of mansions built for the wealthiest residents of Los Angeles in the early 20th C. This home has gone through many iterations, boarding house and for years used as a backdrop for movies. The current owner bought it just 6 months ago and is already making great strides in renovating.waha1The tiles and fireplace surround is typical for the era. Luckily this wood wasn’t painted, although there are no lack of such homes where people painstakingly remove the paint.  There is a secret behind the door.waha2A wonderful old safe.waha3
Upstairs Blair Larson regaled us with family lore. Her great-grandmother owned the home from the late 20s -50s. At this period it was a boarding house. A very common phenomenon for large homes. Her father grew up here and the papers she was reading from are the memories he wrote down.  If she looks theatrical, it is because she is an actress, who even worked in this house in a movie production.PicMonkey Photo

Hattie McDaniel the famous black actress owned this house, it was originally on the tour, but at the last minute we weren’t able to visit.waha4The host at the next house.waha5I pay attention to the details, like this old lamp by the front door.waha6Or the ornate cover for the doorbell mechanism.waha7

An incredible Craftsman designed by the team of Hudson and Munsell, who designed gorgeous Craftsman homes as well as much larger commercial projects.

waha8

 

Details!!!waha9A young couple has been doing an amazing job refinishing the home. The wonderful wall paper is reproduction from another Hudson and Munsell home owned by my fellow Conservancy decent Donald. I have to visit his home one of these days. They found remnants of the wall paper in their home and it is now being reproduced commercially.waha10Back to the Rindge Mansion. Built in 1902 for Frederick Rindge, best known for owning the Rindge Rancho, which today encompasses Santa Monica and all of Malibu. His Son in law is famous for building the Adamson house in Malibu, also worth a visit.waha12No photos inside, today this is the law office and home of Harold Greenberg. The interior is fascinating! So many incredible details, today the ground floor is a law office, but nothing has marred the interior. Sometimes one visits such a home and soaks in the details without taking pictures and that is fine as well.waha11Classic cars to go with a classic home.

There will be another post for other things I saw.

 

 

Leah

Modernism in Palm Springs

Usually when I go to Palm Desert I’m with family and no one wants to go look at houses.  This time I had a few hours to escape and see some of the famous 50s’-60s homes.P1080515Picked up my map at the old Tramway gas station, now the visitors center.

P1080516Simple materials, but a creative use of bricks and a soaring roof line.

I am a firm believer that when you educate and expose yourself to a style, be it art, music or architecture, you will come to appreciate it. It takes time,  everything good in life does. I wouldn’t say Mid century modern architecture is my favorite, but the more I see, the more I appreciate. No better place than Palm Springs with it’s multitude of these homes still standing side by side.  Also, something about the desert makes these sing.P1080522This is one of the few houses on the map that I was able to photograph. All these homes are private and many are now behind gates, I totally understand people not wanting strangers coming by and photographing their homes. Although, this map was put together by the Palm Springs Modern committee – so they must have gotten permission.P1080517Just driving the neighborhood, I encountered so many houses I just stopped the car and pulled out my camera.P1080518I’m wondering if the front gate was a later addition. It is a simpler  design. I really like the very angular door next to the circular iron grate.P1080523Typical roof line and so appropriate for the desert. This allows a higher ceiling which means hot air is rising and it might make the interior just a little less oppressive.  Notice the wall?  I have overheard people complaining about ‘those tacky lattice walls’. Really? When Frank Lloyd Wright used a concrete block over and over people swooned.  Modern architects took the design to the masses and that makes it tacky?  To me it is one of the most effective parts of this style.P1080524The use of different materials, stone, gravel, iron work.P1080527Frank Sinatra’s original home in the desert. He later moved to a much larger complex. I was very lucky that the gate was open.P1080528Someone is refurbishing the house next door. Look at this incredible gate, original to the house, this I love! Of course this will make an incredible quilt, need to give this some serious thought.P1080534I do love gingerbread Victorian homes. I also love this simplicity.P1080546I think this is an old house with an incredible addition. It works so well.  Federal rules for adding on to an historic building require that one doesn’t replicate the old. The idea is to have a definite  change  between old and new, while at the same time creating a cohesive unit. This is the perfect example.P1080542Cut outs in the roof that allow the ubiquitous palm trees to do their thing – grow really really tall.P1080543Impressive isn’t it? I never would have noticed the house otherwise.P1080547As I drove away I came by the Saguaro Palm hotel,  it looks old, but I can’t find any information about it, so it may be new construction in the style of Midcentury.P1080551Admitting my sins, as I rounded the corner in the car I was just clicking away at my camera,  it worked.P1080552Looking t the size of the hotel, I’m thinking the whole thing is modern, but what a great use of shapes and colors. Look online, the pool area is a riot of bright colors.

So now I am really inspired to go down and take a tour, to be able to get more explanations as well as get a closer view.

 

Leah

Programatic architecture

The 1920s were an interesting time for architecture in Los Angeles.  We had homes built to look like they came straight out of fairytales and we had businesses that were built to represent what was being sold there. Programatic Architecture, came about with the proliferation of cars, a small sign in the window was no longer good enough. One needed to be big, bright and brash so the faster moving traffic on street would stop.  Most of these establishments were places that sold food or drink.IMG_0066Built at the tail end of this style, the Idle Hour Cafe on Lankershim Blvd in North Hollywood.  Built to look like a Whiskey barrel,  the Idle Hour functioned as a cafe and bar for 30 years. thBy the 1970s it was bought and turned into a Flamenco Dinner theater. Notice that windows were added to the barrel as well as an outdoor patio.  The owner lived in a small apartment upstairs. She stayed there after the restaurant closed.  When she left preservationists jumped in and did all they could to save this icon.P1080415Thankfully, they succeeded. Renewed, refurbished and once again using it’s original name. Btw, 4822 Lankershim looks like it survived the years as well.P1080422The upstairs windows are gone, the barrel in intact again.P1080412The original door with it’s stained glass window and brass fittings.P1080417IMG_3223It is a little too dark inside for many photos. Here is the restored ceiling of the whiskey barrel along with another of the stained glass barrels. There are a number of them here. The walls have old time photos of this location and other programatic buildings.

There is more out in the back.IMG_0612A reproduction of the Bulldog Cafe, which used to stand on Washington Blvd.  This room can be rented for private parties. Holds up to 15 people,otherwise if not occupied it is part of the general seating.P1080420I snuck around the back and lucked to find the back gate open. This gives you a better idea of the size of this pipe smoking bulldog.

I love seeing old buildings saved and put to use again, I like it better when it is right in my own neighborhood. Oh and the food and drinks were both great, I highly recommend a visit.

Leah

Art and Architecture in East LA

One of the benefits of being a LACMA docent is the field trips.  We tend to go to interesting places. This spring the trip was to Boyle Heights and East LA, with the caveat ‘isn’t it amazing that art is being created here! Well no, but I”ll get to that shortly.

Lonnie C. Blanchard III, a successful attorney, also got into buying real-estate. He moved his law offices to a pretty shady street in an industrial area of Boyle Heights. At the far eastern section of Pico Blvd.  ‘pretty’ is a misnomer, we are talking about a rather downscale area of old warehouses, but despite the tires and couches on the street, the big old ficus trees give this section of Pico Blvd a very pleasant feel.P1080210He painted the compound this deep grey, he may be responsible for the fact that it is completely walled off from the street. Love this ‘graffiti’ fly. He has his law office here, which is much more unusual than having artist studios in old industrial sections of town.P1080226A serene garden in the complex.

Artists are always looking for large workspaces with low rent. They tend to move to undesirable areas, then as the area gets gentrified – newer artists can’t afford the rent and they look for the next undiscovered area.  In LA this progression started in Venice Beach, moved downtown to the Arts District and now is moving east. Say Venice or the Arts district today and you are talking very expensive real estate.P1080227So Lonnie is renting out most of this space to young budding artists. A passion of his, to support contemporary art.P1080230I think this brick patio was added, I doubt this was part of the original building.  As I mentioned, this is in an old industrial part of town. Much of LA’s economy used to be small business and manufacturing, of course that is changing, but there is still a lot of that going on.

So where’s the art you ask??  Here’s the thing, I really don’t like contemporary art. There is a reason why I proudly call myself a crafter and not an artist. I find most contemporary art to be pretentious crap.P1080242While a photographer droned on about the importance of the thought process behind a rather mundane photo, I looked up to the ceiling and was intrigued by the building itself, in this case, peeling paint.P1080238I stopped listening to art student babble and instead looked to the beauty that hard working construction workers created at least 80 years ago.P1080239The engineering intrigues me, the struts, the long bow that supports the roof better than straight steel beams would. And of course the gradual decay.P1080233Skylights, sheet metal, florescent lights, all became fascinating to me. I mentioned them to one of the artists – who had to admit – looking up in old industrial buildings can be a thing of beauty.P1080211Out on the street I was thrilled to see an Art Deco facade, we tend to think of this style of architecture as very elevated and high brow. Not so, when a style catches on – it makes it’s way to the simplest and most mundane of buildings.P1080225Even if this was a simple metal workshop.

So what about the Art?  Meh.P1080232This caught my eye not because it was destined to be painted and glued into figurative shapes that are a social criticism of how we view the human body. Rather, it’s the pile of plywood jigsawed into organic shapes that pleased me. The material is more fascinating than the highbrow reasoning behind it.P1080237This one infuriated me. The artist calls this a quilt, well guess what sweetheart – I’m sure you’d look down on my craft, but what I do is make quilts. This is simply old movie cells dripped with bright paint and sewn together. Also, without the light table underneath, it would be dark and boring.  I know the art world looks down on crafters, which is why many a crafter feels the need to call themself an artist.  Art these days isn’t about beauty – it’s about ‘messaging’. Thankfully, crafting is about making pretty things that can be useful or not. IMG_3195I finally did see something I like. At East LA community college there is an exhibit of wonderful painted woven objects. Lorenzo Hurtado Segovia, is Mexican American, so he can bridge art and craft – there is a hierarchy like no other in the art world. Of course to be honest, I didn’t read any of the explanations of his work, it was simply a matter of reacting to the beauty and the workmanship. IMG_3196Back side of plaid carpet.

See, even in the contemporary art world, I can find beauty.

 

 

Leah

PacMutual, a closer look at a downtown Gem

I’m downtown often, giving tours of wonderful historic old buildings. I rarely have time to take pictures myself, which is a mistake on my part.

IMG_4287This week I arrived early for a tour and had to run up to the conservancy office for something.  I remembered to throw in my small camera and it occurred to me, time to share some of the wonderful details of this marvelous building – today known as the Pacmutual building.

This being crowded downtown, I can’t get far enough to capture the whole building in one shot.IMG_4286Over the main entrance we have this wonderful sculpture with the original symbol of the company Pacific Mutual Life Insurance – the mighty Redwood tree. Today the company is known simply as Pacific Life and it’s logo is the humpback whale.  But this isn’t about the company (as great as it is) but about the buildings they built downtown.IMG_4272Sorry about the quality of the pictures, my little pocket camera isn’t up to the task like my larger camera is. The lobby is gorgeous, I’m just highlighting some of the details, to see the whole building come on one of our walking tours.  Pacific Mutual  Life Insurance Co Initials on the marble stairway finial.IMG_4273The building is classic Beaux Arts through and through, here in the lobby wonderful carved marble pilasters.  I rarely pay much attention to the detail, it is worth while stopping and looking upland around.IMG_4275Details of the barrel vaulted ceiling, probably made from plaster and painted.IMG_4274The clock over the elevator bank. Clocks in public places were very important seeing that not everyone could afford a watch. IMG_4282The whole exterior is clad in glazed terra cotta from Gladding McBean, the largest installation in Los Angeles.  All the fine detail is wonderful,  one thing that makes this building stand out is the use of the dimensional tiles as well.IMG_4279I LOVE fine detail work, notice how in this corner they worked to get this perfect match.IMG_4277This metal and tile work is in the exterior foyer.  Great use of tile and iron.IMG_4278Thats it for now, there is so much more share and show, but I will leave that for another post.

Leah

The Theater at the Ace Hotel, revisited.

Last year we saw the movie Back to the Future at the newly reopened Theater at the Ace hotel. Of course I took pictures that were somewhat blurry.  Recently I had the chance to return, during the day which a small group of people.P1060962A bright sunny day, from the outside the building with it’s Gothic design elements.P1060963From the street, pointing straight up one can see the tower, shiny and renovated. Once again, you need to get a little further away to see the tower better.

Theaters inside are always dark, so it’s not like my pictures this time are so much better.P1060965The details of the images are better.To be honest, while in the building, you hardly notice the details for all the gothic exuberance around you.P1060996Entering the theater itself.  I took these pictures a few months ago. I didn’t use a flash, that would have washed everything out, so I’m thinking that the light was more blue, not so purple.P1060975I’m pretty sure this is more of that wonderful Gladding McBean glazed terra cotta embellishments. Here used on the balcony inside.P1060977One thing that never ceases to amaze is this skylight. P1060978Made up of thousands of circles of glass embedded in some kind of mortar.P1060982Seeing a movie here is fun, but looking at all the decorations is overwhelming. So much to see.

So here is my plug, go sign up for the LA Conservancy Broadway Tour, no you can’t just walk up and join this one. The management at the Ace hotel is thrilled to open the theater to the public and one way of getting inside and see the details is to go on this tour. Other tours get in here as well, but I’m plugging the Conservancy tour. No I don’t give this specific one, but I do know it is really good. P1070001Stepping outside, two different types of graffiti, yarn bombing and applying stickers.  Yarn bombing used to be very new and subversive, it is now simply another form of graffiti on our streets.  At least once removed it doesn’t leave any residue.

And of course, one can’t  have images of this building without this.P1070005For many years Reverend Scott used the theater as his Church, and this sign was visible from many different angles in downtown. Today is proudly sits right over the swimming pool. P1070003And casts a wonderful shadow on the neighboring buildings.

 

Leah