Our summer really starts in July and goes through October, so sewing summer clothes now means I’ll still have plenty of time to wear them.
This time I went to International Silk and Woolens, look at the incredible rayon I found! I love the feel of rayon, sewing with it is a challenge, worth it for the end result.
I bought another pattern from Sew Over it, the Marguaritte dress. This time I downloaded the ‘take to printer’ option and headed over to Staples. The whole pattern cost me $25, which isn’t cheap. But then I don’t know how much it costs when I print and paste at home. This is a very lightweight rayon, which added to the issues.
Cute, with my new crocs, yes crocs. Guess what, these darn things are comfortable, and look, even cute!
My big issue is the neckline, sure I’m supposed to make a muslin, but I don’t. Had I actually made it out of muslin, the neckline would probably lie flatter anyway. So it’s a little too wide.
The keyhole in the back looks ok on the models, but not great on me. Maybe because the fabric is so light, it usually just droops. Originally I used facing on the neckline. The pattern called for it to be interfaced, which I did with very light interfacing. It was all wrong, and no I didn’t take a picture. I put the project down and came back a few hours later, removed the facing and used bias binding instead.
If I ever make this again, I will make the neckline smaller but will probably keep the bias binding. Btw, how do you like how perfect my nail color is with this dress!
The sleeve caps are fun, honestly, I’m wondering if I should have avoided the interfacing altogether. Yes, I used very light interfacing, but because this fabric is so light, it probably would have been better without.
A fun, cool, summer dress, one I could never find in any store.
My dress is new, Joel’s shirt is about 5 years old. We do make a cute couple!
Author: Leah
A shirt for Joel and pillowcases
Every summer I try to make Joel a Hawaiian style shirt. Since I’m getting good at this, I should probably make him some long sleeve shirts in the winter.
I’ll admit that I found the fabric on sale at Michael Levine’s, sure it has birds and butterflies, but the colors are muted and I like the spacing on the print. I did some fussy cutting, made sure to get a lone bird on the pocket.
Back view.
And on the model! He loves these shirts, I did tell him he can retire some of the shirts from 5-6 years ago…
Every month at the Modern Quilt guild, I pick up a package of pillowcases to be assembled. I really like that they go to Foster Kids. I also like making the boy patterns, because I’m sure there are less of them.
This time I wised up. I have a five thread serger, which sews the seam and overlock at the same time. I don’t get a chance to use this much. Last time, I sewed the top band on my regular machine, then did the side seams with the serger. Hmm, why not just serge the whole thing? As you can see, I had some problems with the seam, the thread broke, I had to go back to my regular machine to fix it. Such mishaps occur all the time when sewing.
The back side of the seam is a chain stitch, so it is really important to secure the ends, otherwise, that seam can unravel easily.
So there is one step that I do with a hand sewing needle, I pull the ends back and then I secure them with Fray-check. This is the top, I don’t want lose threads. On the bottom seam, which is inside the pillowcase, I just use fray-check.
One of them is trying to escape! So in the package, everything is cut out and ready to assemble. For the pillowcase on the left, it came with a pink strip. There is a tiny pink dot in the stars. I know boys, on pink strip and they won’t take that pillowcase. So I substituted with blue.
I went into my stash and made a very girly pillowcase.
Six more to donate, I think this year I have made 13 or 14 pillowcases. Each one matters.
Judson studios, the new studio
The new studio is just half a mile away from the old one, like a good Angeleno, I drove.
Here is a fascinating project on one of the tables. I just adore these colors.
Right now it looks like grapes, but who knows?
OK, a bird is taking shape, look at the eye! This looks a combination of fused and traditional painting.
There was a fellow, Sean, who was painting the background for these panels, here the face is being painted. This is the Wyoming commission. The old Studio is where the old style painting usually gets done, but these panels are so large, a lot of the work is done is the bigger brighter modern studio.
These are the three completed panels, well images of them. Very traditional German style Stained Glass.
Getting an explanation about fused glass panels. Behind her are the enormous kilns, they were lowering the cover while we were there. Probably to fuse more of these panels.
This was mid-air, once the top covers everything, they turn on the heat and let the fusing begin, once it all melts together, they let it cool for probably 24 hours, to anneal the glass, so it won’t shatter.
I should have asked what they do with a panel that didn’t come out right…. Maybe the new panels were in the kiln.
I’m wondering how they use these shapes, so many questions!
Three images of projects on the wall. On the right is that wonderful Church in Leawood KS, the amazing structure and an image of the glass window.
Right next to it is a project they are working on right now for San Francisco International airport.
The lower project is a private commission.
Here is a view of the SF Airport project from the back, from outside.
And here it is from Inside. I know that stained Glass started in Europe, but what can I say, the bright intense Southern California light illuminates this like no other. In order to achieve these colors, different metals are infused into the glass, for more info about that, step next door into Bullseye Glass, where they actually manufacture the glass and the frit. Well the manufacturing doesn’t happen next door, but this is a great place for glass and classes.
This is what I’m talking about with the light in Los Angeles, how intense the colors reflected on the concrete floor are. It will be interesting to see what this looks like in the more diffused light of San Francisco.
Every second Thursday of the month, Judson Studios offers these tours. I highly recommend if you are able to go do so! There is nothing like seeing true craftsmen creating beauty in this world.
LeahBack to Judson studios
I haven’t been able to go on the once monthly studio tour this year. My Thursdays were tied up. So now that it’s summer, I went. About 3 years ago I had visited their studios, then just last summer, I had the opportunity to visit the new location in South Pasadena. Honestly, I could probably take their tour every few years, since they are always working on something new.
Over the entrence to the original building is this terra cotta tile, We Can. This was the motto of the USC art school when it inhabited this building. It is a great motto for the family owned company. They take all kinds of jobs, from very small to very very large. They do traditional stained glass as well as a newer method of fused glass.
These glass chips have been in the windows for close to 100 years. You can see the effect of gravity on lead, the formation is bowing out. That is what happens, which is why a lot of the work is restoration. The glass is fine, it’s the supporting lead that desintigrates.
Very traditional stained glass. start with a design, today this is done on a computer. Then map out how it will be constructed and cut out the glass.
The paper has been cut, and traced onto the glass. It takes a lot of patience and experience to acurately cut the glass to match the paper templates.
This will be a large installation in a private home. Since in this case it’s all straight lines, they use zinc instead of lead. Here these shapes are being created and soldered.
Final product, these chunks of glass will seperate larger octogans of different colors. Just creating those glass chunks took a lot of work. 
Just like at the glass workshop at Forest Lawn, Horse nails are used to hold the glass in place.
Here a restoration is taking place, that’s the old glass on a table. He is taking rubbings of the old lead and then removing it. The glass on the table just needs to be cleaned and releaded. I’m thinking OSHA would have a cow, looks at this room. It’s a half basement, there is no air conditioning, just fans, and very basic tools. The photo in the background is from a recent job, The Resurrection Window for a church in Leawood KS. It is because of this project that the new studio was acquired and a whole new world is opening up.
This is a commission for a church in Arizona, very traditional work.
Another large project has been ongoing for over a year, with more to come. There are monks in Wyoming who are building a monastery, by hand. They have commisioned these panels for themselves. Three are complete, at least 3 more are in process. Once they are installed, the only ones who will see them will be the monks themselves.
The Judson trademark is on every piece of work.
Many great saying are painted on the walls, next post, the new studio.
Leah
Family vacation
In our busy lives it hard to get all the kids and grandkids together. It took a lot of planning to find a date and a location. We ended up going for the weekend to a resort near Legoland. A great time was had by all. 
The pool and the splash pad were loads of fun.
The playgound wasn’t large, but was very different from the ones at home. Westley is becoming quite the climber.
This got the biggest workout of all.
Some people sat and relaxed.
Enjoying time with the Aunt.
And others treated it like a roller coaster ride.
We did go down to the beach, most of the pictures I took there are on my son’s camera, so I have to wait for him to share.
Two gorgeous smiles, with Westley no so sure in the background.
Reading books before bed.
We made it to Legoland.
Went on a couple of rides and saw the aquarium. The one ride I wouldn’t go on is one I took pictures of.
First you go up.
Ready for action!
Yup, then you get tossed! No thank you!
Princess Leah with Princess Leia, I always tell people that my name is like the princess but I had it first. Not only that, I’m still around and she is gone. Oh well, at least the Lego Princess is doing just fine. I like how our hair almost looks the same, just mine isn’t in those silly buns.
The Iliad Bookshop
I remember years ago visiting the Iliad Bookshop when it was on the corner of Vineland and Lankershim blvds in North Hollywood. It always has been a wonderful used bookstore. In looking for the link for their homepage I was reminded why they are named Iliad, not because of the great Greek story, but because they were located next door to Oddessy Video. So the name was a play on words. 
About 10 or 12 years ago they lost their lease and moved further east to Cahuenga and Chandler Blvds. A much larger space. I have often driven by here, why it took me so long to walk in, I don’t know. Probably because I’ve been seduced by online stores, as well as the Kindle and even the ability to check out ebooks from the library.
I finally rectified that mistake. I went in. First of all, the exterior is beyond wonderful, look at these books.
These are just a few of the murals on the outside of the building.
The interior is so gorgeous!!!!
Do you see the pile of books on the floor? While walking by, I saw a paperback by Josephine Tey, I have read a number of her books and really love them. The Daughter of Time is her most famous, debunking the story that King Richard III was an awful person. Anyway, she died in the early 1950’s, her books are still in print. But how fun to find one of them here, perfect for this weekend when I will be sitting next to a pool and don’t want to read on my Ipad.
Like all good bookstores, they have cats, I saw at least two. They do allow small dogs on leash into the store, but do ask that people give them a chance to corral the cats if need be.
There is a Disney section and a very large section about every aspect of the film world. From biographies, to manuals on filming or how to get into the business. Of course aside from a very large room dedicated to fiction, they have every other topic you can imagine. All very well laid out, it’s not just a jumble of books.
If I were still designing fabrics, I would have grabbed all three of these books. I actually already one book on fabric from the 50s, these are an incredible resource. They don’t have a lot of craft books, but boy did I luck out.
Look what I found on the $2 table! Yes, I love an excellent book on quilt history, this is one of them. What a great example of early 20th century Crazy quilt. My mother had plenty of art books, really good ones, to ship them back here from Israel would have been quite a chore. And to be honest, as much as I love art, I have more of an affinity to crafts these days.
These three will be part of a birthday gift for Eyal, so what if they are gently used, they are gorgeous books. They have quite a collection of beautiful childrens’ books, I will be back.
Outside on the sidewalk they have boxes of books for free. 
This book was published in 1978, which means that many of these Painted Ladies in San Francisco may not be standing anymore. Once again, for me, this book is an inspiration, in color and design.
Have I mentioned how much I love Los Angeles? So many treausres right in my backyard.
LeahParty dress, finished
First off, the lapped zipper. This is something you hardly see anymore, even on fine clothes. It’s the details that take simple cotton from plain to a really lovely dress.
I have so many dresses with a separate bodice and skirt, it’s nice to have one with princess seams.
A very nice party dress, not too fancy, but if I make a little Bolero style jacket, it will work in colder weather as well.
In the pattern instructions, the inset is supposed to attach to the bodice with snaps. I bought the snaps, but didn’t feel like that was a good solution. So I just sewed it in place, I think it looks fine. I did double lace. Wasn’t too sure about the color, but this greyed down blue works really well. Just another small detail that makes a big difference
Here I am, admiring a mosaic bird I made a few years ago, I keep on thinking I’ll make more for this wall. I really should.
And now, lets see the skirt in motion! 
It looks lovely, clothes are meant to move. Who knows, I might be dancing in this, it should swish well – and it does.
sewing
First of all, I have to share a picture that Yvonne put together of all the blocks from her workshop.
The great thing about being in a workshop is seeing how the same pattern comes out so differently depending on the fabrics that are used.
A while ago I found a sewing You Tube Channel, Sew Over It, I watched a few episodes than forgot about it. Meanwhile, a new sewing podcast has started up from London. It’s called Stitchers Brew and in it, Megan and Gabby either talk about their own sewing or interview, usually in person, other interesting sewers. So there I was reintroduced to Lisa Comfort, not only is she adorable, she really knows her stuff!
I have been burned by Indie patterns, I am fine with the big four, I guess that just means I’m older and not a hipster, oh well. But I have had problems with some very big names in the Indie world, like a sleeve that didn’t have a front and back. Which means it didn’t fit right. Or the patterns are all the same, very basic.
After her interview I went back to see some of her videos and I came across this pattern:
What is so nice about You Tube is she showed a number of versions and she was very explicit about using a drappy fabric like rayon. There are a number of interesting features, like a half stand collar. So I ordered the pattern and taped the pieces together. Then I went to Michael Levines and looked for rayon.
Rayon isn’t easy to come by and often, I don’t like the print. 
I found this print, fun, my colors and it works! Sewing with rayon isn’t easy, it is a slippery fabric. Lisa is right, had I made this out of cotton, it just would be one big box, because the rayon drapes, the shirt has a lovely shape.
So yes, I will be ordering more patterns from Sew Over It. Lisa really knows what she’s doing and I’m seeing original designs, not the same old same old.
Still working on the party dress, 
I could have put in an invisible zipper, but I want to elevate this dress, make it more ‘couture’ so instead I lapped the zipper in the back and as you can see, I’m tacking it down with tiny stitches.
I love the rayon lining, gives the dress more body as well as being very breathable and comfortable.
I lined the complete dress, something I rarely do, I just serged the lining but used lining lace on the dress.
This sort of works like horsehair, it doesn’t give as much body as horsehair would, but just enough so the skirt has volume. Next post, me modeling the dress.
Triangle Transparency workshop
I had the pleasure of taking a workshop with Yvonne. I don’t take every workshop that is offered, but something like this is so worth my while.
So what is transparency? It’s the effect of light, how more layers will make something darker. I’m not going into all the details, that is what the class is about.
This project results in a 60″ x 60″ quilt. For the workshop I decided to pull fabric from my stash and see how I like this before investing in new fabric. Here is one find. When working with transparency, it’s not the the light to dark that matters, it’s also keeping it all in the same colorway. Not an easy thing to do with purple. These are all old fabrics I found at a garage sale, the quality is poor, but the colors do work.
I chose to go from dark to light, because I like the dark print best and really wanted to showcase it.
Scott did the opposite, he had cut everything before hand and I think had even done a lot of the sewing at home. Btw, I have no doubt this came from his stash, my stash is tiny compared to his.
Anna pulled from her stash, it just happens to be Cherrywood fabric. She too went from dark to light. She has had this fabric for a long time, well worth waiting for this project.
My block, finished, I am very, very pleased with the result! It’s hard to tell sometimes when looking a pile of fabric.
Yvonne did the math and shrunk the block down from 30″ to 15″. Yes, this is considered a transparency because the floral print contains both the blue and the green. 
My two blocks side by side.
With Gregs’ block.
Scott finished his top quickly, I really like this layout.
Anna’s finished top is stunning, Cherrywood fabrics are very expensive but so worth it, especially for such a graphic design.
Any quilter who has the chance, take Yvonne’s class. She is a good teacher and really helped people out along the way.
Leah
All kind of creativity, nothing finished yet
Still exploring the city and being creative.
Block by block, this quilt is growing.
Top is now done. Most of the blocks are very similar, with differences in placement of color. There are some other shape differences as well, but not much. I love scrappy, I don’t like rainbow.
Now I have to figure out how to quilt this.
I started a new knitting project, this is the swatch.
It will be another cardigan. I know yarn stores are having a very hard time surviving, the big knitting craze of 10-15 years ago is over. So most stores carry specialty yarn, not the basics. Sure, I will be ordering basics online, but that does make it hard for me to support my LYS when I can’t find what I want. Because this is a very simple shape, the kettle dye look works, but I do miss just finding Cascade yarn at my LYS.
Clothes sewing continues. 
I have a wedding this summer which gives me an excuse to make a cute party dress. Yes, this is very simple, and yet it is lovely. I went to Mood LA and saw my friend Kay who now works there. We both agreed that the option on the right isn’t very accurate, it would take so much fabric to get those very large elements to look like that, in reality, they’d be chopped up.
So I started looking at silks, no luck, I don’t want solid color, what can I say, I’m a print girl! The prints were either too busy, or like this too big.
So I ended up with the blue cotton print, a pretty lace for the inset and rayon lining. By fully lining the dress, I will give it more structure and that will help elevate it from a simple cotton dress.
This time, I made a muslin, I want the dress to really fit right. I have a long torso, so I did add to the length of the bodice before making the muslin.
It fits the dress form.
More important, it fits me, no on to actually sewing the dress. Although it is a simple pattern, I’m not rushing anything. I want to get this right.
Ok, back to work.
Leah