Have I mentioned how much I love LA? Always something new to discover, often with the help of the Atlas Obscura.
On a gloomy Sunday in June, I went off the the Arts District downtown for an adventure.
Waiting for everyone to arrive, I started taking pictures of the surrounding buildings. The Arts District is famous for it’s murals and street art. Little did I know that we were headed inside this building.
.. to be greeted by 5000 square feet of this.
Since this was an industrial building with high ceilings, Peter built an interior roof.
Now we get to why I love cultural appropriation – as it is called today. (in my youth we just called it the melting pot and celebrated the fact that we were all welcome to share in one another’s culture). Peter Lai is a Chinese man from Hong Kong. For many years he was quite the flamboyant designer, once here in America, he left his family tradition of designing for Chinese theater and TV and designed high-end couture for a clientele in San Marino. He also developed a love for everything Japanese, especially the Kabuki theater. So he built a miniature Japanese village in his loft. He is an avid collector, here showing us an old store register, listing the inventory and what has sold.
Everywhere one looks there is stuff! I realized quickly that his inspiration is Japanese theater – not the sparse simple design we associate with Japan. In the fall he is going to take a practical exam to become an official Kabuki dancer. He has been dancing for 17 years, his Mentor is 95 years old, if he is going to pass his exam, he has to do it soon.
A Temari ball caught my eye. He tends to collect many items, this was the only such ball that I saw.
He did have a basket full of Darumas. A few words about Kabuki, traditionally it was performed only by men, in the early 20th century it opened to women as well. Guess what happened? The men left, today there are hardly any male Kabuki dancers, so when Peter becomes official, he will be the first male Kabuki dancer in his studio in a very long time.
A few words about Kabuki, traditionally it was performed only by men, in the early 20th century it opened to women as well. Guess what happened? The men left, today there are hardly any male Kabuki dancers, so when Peter becomes official, he will be the first male Kabuki dancer in his studio in a very long time.
In this space there is of course, a theater for performances, I think it can hold 45 people. In front of some of the seating cushions, were bento boxes wrapped in the Furoshiki technique, a delight for the textile crafter in me.
Peter isn’t a purist, he is theatrical! Behind him is a Chinese opium bed. He is holding the original high heel shoe – for a man! Next to him is a Chinese garment, turns out he found the skirt but couldn’t find a matching top, so he removed the bands off the back of the skirt and incorporated them into a matching jacket. A purist would cringe, but for Peter, unless he is taking the Kabuki exam, anything goes. He has performed his dances for local audiences here, and as long as he doesn’t call it pure Kabuki, he feels he combine what he wants. I like his attitude!
There is a dressing and makeup room, full of wigs, hair ornaments and face makeup. I zoomed in on the many combs used for the wigs. He even modeled a young man’s wig as well as an older mans’ wig. This one was gray and had a large bald spot on the top!
I think Betty Boop loves her new costume! Most of the kimonos he owns are for the theater, not street wear or even wedding kimonos. I could tell because of the garish colors and the heavy use of gold and silver thread. All this is very necessary on stage, but would be considered gauche in everyday life.
From early teens until late 20s’ Peter worked in the family theatrical costume workshop. It was then sold and went out of business, so Peter has had to buy back costumes the family made. He should be a consultant on any production of Chinese movie made here in America, he knows the difference between all the dynasties and what they wore. While he still had his clothing store in San Marino, he would often remove such a dragon and put in on a lovely evening jacket.
What a workroom! For him this is small, he no longer is making clothes but is still updating items and making a new costume here and there. He is selling off fabric, buttons, and trims.
It was so nice to see a solid industrial Juki still at work.
Anyone who visits the studio is welcome to buy one of his creations for a very steep discount.
Just to show you how eclectic he is, this steampunk mask would sell for a very nice price! I don’t think this was for sale.
Leah
I’m usually downtown in the daytime, giving tours and seeing people using the share bikes.
With the long days of spring and summer, six pm isn’t exactly dark. Grand Park runs three blocks from the Music center up on Grand Ave, across Hill and Broadway down to City Hall on Spring st. These days many fun activities take place here. A food fair, both booths, and trucks, bars and entertainment took place this weekend. So we hopped on the subway and went to explore. There was a Mariachi band.
Chinese dragon dancers. I really didn’t take any pictures of the food, we had some great middle eastern food. It was just fun walking around and people watching. LA is a real melting pot, no cultural appropriation – rather cultural sharing, everybody bringing their traditions and making them all American.
This scene made my heart melt. Although it was pretty cool, the kids had no problem running through the fountain. A mom in her wheelchair got her daughter to push her and have her join the fun. I heard her say: this is the best Mother’s Day ever, I haven’t had so much fun!
So what is George Washington doing in this park? He didn’t originate here since the park is only a few years old.
I love the fact that once upon a time, this is what school children in Los Angeles did. Along with the women of the chamber of commerce. This must have been in storage for a while, so nice that he is now part of a very busy park.
I love the ‘new’ tradition of taking prom pictures at iconic sites in the city. In front of Disney Hall.
One girl took her date’s jacket, this other guy was much smarter. Along with his bright red suit, he wore a polar bear fur coat. Well, probably not made from a polar bear, but he was the only one who wasn’t freezing.
But young women will put up with the cold to be beautiful. Can’t blame them, it’s all part of youth.
Here is a cute couple, and yes, I am coveting her dress.
Golden sunset lighting the Broad. My favorite part of this museum is the building itself. And there you have some California gold.
What I did capture was the lights in the fountain that runs along side the stairs. Light can make water so much more interesting.
I am sharing only a few images of the full garments, I’m finding that it’s the details I love. Sure on a big screen this is what pops out at you.
But this is what pops out at me, the details. The materials used, the subtlety, the effect that light has.
The amazingness of silk. Just using different silks, slight changes in the shades of color. A little fabric manipultion, and we are ready to go!
The fantasy films are where the mens’ costumes thrive. Really what can you do with a business suit? But create a fantasy warrior and go to town on the textures! Yes, that is a red cape, which highlights all of the wonderful braid, fabric and leather.
Leather, coarsely woven fabric, andmetallicc embroidery! As well as some fur. Who says men can’t have fun?
A closer look, metal work and some bright purple silk. I’m sorry the focus isn’t great. I can’t use my flash. But I think you get the idea.
The robe is made of those ball chains. For some reason I adore those chains. So to see a full length garment made out of them! Swoon! Really I need to see the movie to see how it moves, but I forgot which on it is.
I don’t know if this is Alice, what I do know is the colors and the Chinese influences are wonderful.
I love when a designer references the source but does her own thing. In this case it is 
Love the shoes!!! The eel is too high for me, but oh my, these are gorgeous.
Alongside the movie costumes there is always a smaller exhibit. In this case costumes and clothes from the 1920s. This dress was used in the Orient Express. I would wear it today! A knit dress with embroidery and insets. 
The detail! The color! I want this dress!
Capturing rain on camera isn’t easy, believe me, it was pouring! I was supposed to give a tour to high school students. We planned on meeting in Pershing Square. I stayed across the street under the overhang at the entrance to the Starbucks in the Title Guarantee building. We all huddled there until the rain cleared a little and then it was off on a tour. Most of the tour was fine, towards the end the rain started again.
Thanks to the rain, there wasn’t a line at Eggslut in Grand Central Market. I finally had my chance to try thier famous sandwhiches. My verdict? Meh. Not worth the wait. It was a fine egg sandwich, I’m glad it’s off my bucket list. Sure, if there isn’t a line I’d get another, but it certainly isn’t worth the hype.
The first picture was taken at noon, this one at 2:30. Ah, LA Blue skies! Now, you have to understand, photography is all about how you frame the image. the the left and behind me there were still gray ominous clouds, which later that day dumped more rain. But this is the sky we are famous for.
A few days latter and I’m on the northern rim of the San Fernando Valley, in a neighborhood called Porter Ranch. Hiking with a friend, enjoying exercize, good company and great views. The haze over the valley is haze, not smog, within the hour it had lifted.
The first part of the walk was on city streets, we looked down over this horse path, our hike was a circle, so coming back would be on this path.
And here we are. The hill sides are still covered in the old dead chapparal, but a lot of new growth is happening because of the rain.
Look at the size of the boulder that fell from the hillside. We saw a lot of evidence of mudslides. Most dragged down the litter that people have thrown, this one brought down some rocks and a large boulder.
See, the haze lifted, back to our glorious blue sky!
The front exterior, with a large rose window. Stain glass only looks impressive with the light shining through.
Los Angeles has plenty of light to make the glass sparkle.
The intricate lead makes clear this is stain glass.
Combined with light, we have art. There is something to be said for an art form that relies so heavily on a natural element to perform at it’s best.
These windows are so high above me that I can’t get a straight forward picture. But maybe that is deliverate, it’s not about a close intimate study of the glass, it really is about the light and color.
I know 
The vibrant deep colors just sing. Someone must have paid to have this window installed in the memory of a loved one. For years church art was sponsored by congregants in this manner.
Not all are that successful, this is in honor of a church secretary. Can I just say fake Della Robbia and leave it there? OK, maybe not fake, maybe reproduction, but it lacks the vibrancy of the 15th century Florantine ceramics. To me, it just looks like kitsch.
As does this small section of a large gilded picture frame. Let’s just say, this isn’t to my taste at all.
This on the other hand is fine, even if it is molded concrete. Maybe because it is the kind of reptitious pattern that becomes part of so many decorative elements around us.
A reproduction altar lamp.
Then I looked down and saw this marquetry in the floor. The Jerusalem cross – got it’s name becasue the Crusaders had this cross on their banners when they entered Jerusalem. Interesting how now, the Episcopal Church which is the farthest thing from the Crusaders have adopted this as their cross. I also find it strange that it is inlaid on the floor, to be walked on and ignored by most people. I guess I’m busy really looking, trying to see those things that most people miss.
Much smaller of course, but the same themes, like how to make menswear exciting for the runway.
Or, computer generated desgin on printed fabric.
In the accesory catagory, it’s all about the tie, really the only place a businessman can hope to express himself.
Then there is the banyan, or house coat, for lounging around the house. He still looks overdressed, Fez and all.
At least the embroidery is delightful. Looks hand embroidered in the good sense of homemade. Good quality but a certain freedom of design.
Unlike 18th Century formal wear that was exquisitly embroidered, also by hand, but by people working in an atelier. About as close as machine perfection that you could find in those days.
So did this caftan come west? Was it worn by a man of liesure in Europe? Or was it saved from some nomads tent and cherished as a beautiful example of central Asian textile and not as a garment to be worn?
A fabulous example of the Smoking Jacket, made from Cigar silks. There ae many jackets and quilts that took advantage of these thin strips of silk.
Even with the company names stamped right in the middle. Lovely hand embroidery was used to attach one ribbon to the next. Using silk thread in matching colors, the gold and red.
And finally, a little humor. How riske are this boxer shorts. A true fantasy for any man.
I’ll start with Outlander. No, I haven’t seen the show, I hated the first book and left it at that. But this isn’t about the show itself, it’s about the costumes. I was with my friend Ruth who taught costume design, she thought she was boring me with the details. I loved it. She said the 18th-century silhouette is here and is captured beautifully. As for the embroidery – that is a modern embellishment.
This man’s waistcoat is a sight to behold.
From the embroidered images I’m thinking bad guy? The Designer certainly knows her illuminated manuscripts very well. Both the bird and the bat are straight from medieval European manuscriptsNo one ever saw those teeth on TV, which is why these shows are so wonderful, getting such a close-up view of very well made costumes.
Since Cumberbatch wasn’t part of the show, the only thing we care about is the Deer Stalker hat – that wasn’t in any of the books.
I think this was mid to late 19th century. Of course, for me, it’s about the details.
20’s style dress, great use of bias tape.
Ruth complained about this set, it will look flat on camera she said. She is right, here is my image from my camera and the dresses have no depth, even though they have great detail in real life.
Fantasy shows are always fun (I think this is from Defiance) take the Scottish Highland outfit, kilt and all, but knock it up about ten notches. 
Wool, leather, snakeskin, an amulet from the Himalayas (or a facsimile of one). Once again, a pleasure to see up close.
The joy of Sci-fi is as much in the costumes as in the story.
Someone had a lot of fun working this leather.
Someone else had a blast distressing all of these items of clothing. This I do know is from the Walking Dead. But was it worn by a zombie or someone trying desperately to stay alive?
Killer nails, fake of course but part of the hand, not the glove, the glove has holes at the tips of the nails.
Men’s costumes rarely get the love the ladies receive. So I’m always looking at the details. I’m thinking this would fly off the shelves given half a chance.
One weekend we’re visiting artists in their studios in Topanga Canyon. The fog rolling in over the mountains gives everything a mystical feeling.
Visiting the homes was much more fun that most of the artwork. Crazy steep canyons and gorgeous mountain views.
Simple gardens behind high fences.
A stereotypical home, half a geodesic dome with the obligatory yurt in the yard.
A wonderful old tree stump that looked better than a lot of the art.
A fat pig who had just been fed.
His friend clearly wanting more.
Here and there, even some good art.
Happy dances.
Painted vases and urns, one was cracked but the paint held it together.
A loom warped and ready to go.
With the weaver showing off his wears.
Or the silversmith.
Despite the national costume, everyone understands a smart phone.
This cat seemed a little surprised to see a large group of people walking outside his window. I love looking at details, here it’s the dried old putty that holds the glass in the frame.
This is the front of the building, industrial Art Deco. Notice the symbol of work/live art space.
We walked into Big Yard Art Lab, also an artist space. Big Yard makes the big installations for events like Cochella or the old Lallapallooza. We never think about who or where things are made. Clearly Los Angeles is the place and these old industrial yards are perfect. This mural was painted by the duo 
I like how one figure is dancing on the wires.
Another figure on the corner of the buildings, don’t know who painted this.
We crossed the Los Angeles River, at this point Steve Grody was our guide. He has written a book about graffiti in Los Angeles, for me it was a little overkill on all the details. But that is often the fun when walking with an expert.
Interesting city lights on the bridge. Facing different directions changes the exposure on my camera! I’m not good enough to know how to compensate, and there is only so much I can correct later. I found this very interesting that this memorial is to an officer who was killed in 1942, the LAPD must replace these memorial signs from time to time.
There was quite an explanation about this graffiti, about the lettering, the style. Either the owner of the building doesn’t care, or it is empty. We went on to the Naud Graffiti yard, which today is fenced in and at one point had vicious guard dogs, the whole area is completely tagged. Clearly the owner had enough, sold the land and the new owners have other plans for the place. 
We are at the very northern edge of Chinatown and property is gaining in value again. We saw new businesses, since many of the buildings are massive warehouses, the owners are commissioning artists to paint. Actually, I don’t know if they are paying them or just giving them the walls. I know the likes of 
This has to be a very old street. While others are looking at the walls, I’m looking down at the ground, some of the original brick road is still visible.
As well as a beautiful old building on Broadway.
This is just a small section of the mural, this is a mural, not graffiti, even if it celebrates graffiti.
What happens when the muralist gets tagged? Notice on the low wall someone tagged the image, at just the right angle it would have blended in with the larger image on the wall. Art school students, who else could figure out these perspectives?
Having the people in for scale.
This building is a huge warehouse made of cinderblocks. 
Unlike this old building that is made of bricks. Probably a large warehouse in it’s day. The textures here are great, the brick, the plywood, the roofline, the weeds and yes, even the mural.
This old bus gets the mural treatment as well.
Looking towards the Broadway bridge over the river, looks like they are working on retrofitting it, something they couldn’t do with the 6th St. bridge. This is once again graffiti. I do like the surprise of the reflection in the puddle. Ah what rain does for us.
This wall was the interior wall of some kind of building that was torn down.
The old railroad ties and debris that are used to shore up the railroad. Yes, this one is very much in use today. Union Station is just down the road.
Walking back to my car, a very different kind of mural – one that advertises the San Antonio winery 2 blocks down.
The front is much lovelier, more industrial Art Deco.