Travel – Page 6 – No Idle hands here

Art Deco in Chicago

Chicago is full of wonderful Art Deco, I just snapped a lot of photos. I realized that sharing small close up images is better than the large whole building.Sometimes you want both most of building, because it’s so beautiful. Carbide and Carbon building.I love the details here so much, of course it’s hard to see until one looks at a close up of a photograph.Of course the best way to attract attention to the tower is using gold, real gold leaf. I took this picture in the late afternoon with the sun shining on the tower which makes it all shimmer like gold.This fabulous Art Deco fountain is next to the Chicago Board of Trade building. Wow! Funny the man sitting in the background was confused as to why I was taking pictures. I just said: this is an amazing piece of Art Deco – I think I just confused him more. Detail. I wonder if this is made from Mallechort, the same material used on the Oviatt Building here in LA. It looks like silver but it doesn’t tarnish .
I’m sure many a cattle future were determined in this building. Remember the Chicago Stockyards? (sort of like Coalinga off the 5 Freeway in central California – just much much larger). What an amazing example of a graphic Art Deco bull.Riverside Plaza, as seen from the wonderful Architecture River cruise. Once again, I couldn’t see the images well until I cropped the photos.A small portion of the enormous Chicago Mercantile exchange.I don’t remember the name of this building, it is on Michigan Ave. in the Magnificent mile.Art Deco interiors are wonderful as well. Bank America building. I got yelled at cuz I shot a photo looking into the actual bank floor, this is not it.Look at the mailbox!! It looks like an Art Deco building, not like the one it’s in though. Notice the lights in the high-rise? That lets you know where the elevator cars are. Function and beauty working very well together.Back in the Rookery, the elevator lobby was updated in the 20s to Art Deco style. Wonderful lamp as well as the elevator doors that are decorated with birds. Anything to get the idea of Rookery to stick.This one even has owls!How cool is this! Also in the Rookery, on the third floor, a perfect frame for the elevator buttons.

I’m breaking up my Chicago images, there was so much to see and to share.

Leah

The Rookery, Chicago

Chicago has so much incredible architecture concentrated in a relatively small area, it’s hard to choose what to see. I chanced upon a docent led tour of the Rookery.The Chicago Fire was a defining moment for the city. The city had to completely reinvent itself. At the same time, two important inventions happen, steel frames for building – so the walls no longer are the weight bearing elements of the building – which allows for larger and more windows. The invention of the elevator as well as the technology to make it safe – means height is no longer limited to 5 stories.

Chicago leads the way in building sky scrapers as these new tall buildings are called. The 11 story Rookery is one of the first, built in 1888.Another requirement is no more wooden buildings, brick, stone and terra cotta are now used as the exterior envelope. The location of the building was known as the Rookery – which had very bad connotations in the late 19th century. Despite the owners of the building trying to eliminate this designation – it has survived. Another influence at the time is Moorish architecture, seen in the entry arch.A detail in this arch that may or may not have escaped the notice of the owners is these two crows, one of them laughing that they are very much part of the Rookery.Working in Terra Cotta opens up the ability to be extremely detailed in the bas relief work. At a latter date, glazed Terra Cotta will be the rage. Something that also becomes very popular in commercial buildings here in California.

The building was designed by Barnham and Root, Daniel Barnham also designed the Columbia world Fair and gave us the Beaux Arts style of architecture.

30 years after the Rookery was built a new young architect was brought in to update the lobby and the central atrium. This is when the marble got gold etchings and the name was added. Oh the architect was Frank Lloyd Wright.

The more I learn about architecture the more I appreciate the unsung ones. FL Wright is a movie star, yes he was very innovative – except where it came to the structural integrity of his buildings, which is why so many are falling apart. But that whole discussion is for another day.The glass domed atrium as well as the staircase are from the original design. The brace is Wright and was added during his update, before that there were poles supporting from the ground. Right across from flying staircase is a marble one. The original was marble, but without the gold leaf. Also, notice the cast iron? That was a favored material in the late 1800s. the pedestal and urn are part of the modernization, that too used to be cast iron.Notice how the design in the marble mimics the Moorish design in the cast iron.The original columns were also cast iron, here is one example that has been open to show the original. BTW, by the 1960s’ design became even more simplified and plain. Very little ornamentation can be found. At that time this atrium was turned into an ugly sterile box. Luckily things were covered up – not removed, so when this renovation was done they were able to go back to the Wright iteration. The claim was it was too hard to go back to the original. Not sure that is true, I’m thinking that Wright is a big name these days and would draw much more attention the Burnham and Root would.Clearly I like busy. My quilts are scrappy, I love combining patterns and designs, and I love finding examples out in the world that share my taste. Stars, I love when geometry creates ‘Jewish stars’. (I hate it when it creates Swastikas – which happens very often, that too is a very graphic symbol). Notice the large star in the banister. This is the original, there are dentil strips on the top and bottom and though it is hard to see, the actual shape is heavily ornamented.The staircase continues up to the 11th floor, once it moves above the dome, it is encased in glass.Here is how Wright simlified this design in the railings. He is still adhering to what was already there.The lamps are pure Wright, Prairie Style! There was nothing there before, so he had some free reign to do as he pleased. It’s a little hard to see, but I like how the trusses of the dome have circles cutouts and the truss of the lamp has rectangles. Talking to but not mimicking.Although he clearly mimicked the grid, curving it slightly. Yes the man was a great designer – no question about that – it was the engineering and the structural aspects where he fell short.

Leah

Louis Comfort Tiffany glass in Chicago, part l

Before I left for Chicago I did a lot of research online about what kind of architectural tours to take. On the Chicago Architecture Foundation tours there was a tour of Tiffany Treasures, why not, I love glass, this should be interesting.

What can I say but WOW! Of course I knew that Louis Comfort Tiffany created incredible stained glass – most notably lamps and large installations of large windows, but I knew nothing of the mosaics. Unfortunately, most of the research online doesn’t make much mention of the mosaics, but doesn’t highlight them.

So a visit to the Marquette Building was a real eye opener.The lobby is incredible, marble, bronze and Tiffany Mosaics. They tell the story of Joliet and Marquette, early French Canadian explorer in the area. Here they are leaving on their journey – receiving blessings as they head out.A number of things about these mosaics. They were designed by J.A. Holtzer, the mosaic designer for the Tiffany Glass company. What is really incredible is the glass itself. Louis experimented and created his own glass, this one – an opalescent, iridescent called Favrile. Once his factory shut down, the recipe for making this was lost.The glass glows! I am a lover of mosaics and have never seen such luminescent images.He created textured glass, like the grey example to the left of the hand, as well as glass that resembles volcanic glass. Ancient mosaics used small pieces of glass, Holtzer introduced the idea of cutting larger pieces – something I’m sure he learned from the stained glass.This gentleman is a perfect example of using larger segments of glass, makes him really stand out against the traditional mosaic. The MB is the initials of the Marquette building.Meeting the native tribes. The light bulbs are reproduction Edison bulbs. Although there is much more light now in the lobby, these are the type of bulbs that were installed originally. The death and burial of Marquette.Interesting how the grey jacket arm is one piece of glass while the face is done in the traditional method. I guess there is something to be said about shading small details that is better done with tiny pieces of glass.The bronze was incredible as well, so I have to include part of the revolving door.

At the Art Institute I did see an example of the lamps – that is what I was most familiar with, I’m hoping that anyone visiting Chicago also see the mosaics. The Marquette building is open to the public, so even if you can’t go on a docent led tour, you can see these. I visited on my first day, not realizing I’d be back. Since the MacArthur foundation owns the building, they hand out a very nice brochure as well. Also, in the back lobby there is a very interesting photo exhibit about the development of sky scrappers – but that is for another post.

Leah

Chicago the overview

I was very fortunate to spend 4 days in Chicago – the place of my birth. I wonder if nostalgia gets more intense as we age. I left when I was 8 years old, sure there were visits since, although I think the last one was 15 years ago. But there was something so familiar the city – with all the new buildings, it still felt ‘right’.I have over 300 photos, best place to start is in the Signature lounge of the John Hancock building, romantic and what a view! I have fear of heights, but sitting in this room, next to what felt like 10″ glass – I wasn’t scared at all – and this was before the alcohol arrived!Down on Michigan Ave, the famous water tower, one of the few commercial buildings to survive the great Chicago Fire of 1971. It is now so hemmed in by tall sky scrappers, I chose a close up of the Gothic inspired limestone building. Most of Chicago was built out of wood, a very plentiful material in the area. At the time this building and the pump station were right on the lake, so although limestone can be heavily damaged by fire, these two weren’t. One thing that felt so right was the lake itself. As a child we lived just a few blocks from the lake in Evanston, so this kind of scene is embedded in my consciousness.We stayed at the historic Drake hotel, right at the start of the Magnificent mile.A Drake is a type of duck, it is also a type of dragon, which is a much better symbol for the hotel.The Chicago shoreline as seen from Navy Pier.And at night, with a clear view of the John Hancock building.Chicago is full of Art Deco Buildings, here a close up of a hart on a building on Michigan Ave. (don’t remember which one!) I don’t know if the VS initials have to do with the builder or the building. Of course I only noticed this when I looked at the photo.There is a lot of juxtaposition of old and new. This finial is on the Michicgan Ave Bridge which is officially called the DeSable Bridge. Completed in 1928, this is one of the classic finials, with a modern sky scrapper behind it.I highly recommend the Big Bus tour with the open deck, it was fun to see an El train go by almost at eye level.Another way to get around town is these bikes. This is a little unusual to see the rack full by Millennium Park in the middle of a summers day. Of course it did start start raining heavily shortly after I took this picture.This is half of a large sculpture, every 10 minutes it shoots out this blast of water. The kids love this of course.The lions in front of the Art Institute of Chicago. I learned that this building was built for the Columbia World Exposition (go read Devil in the White City). Although the Fair itself was seven miles south, this was a lecture hall. It was slated to become the Art museum afterwards – to hold items from the Exposition as well as acquire new pieces of art. It succeeded well beyond their dreams. The bronze lions hadn’t been cast when the fair started, so the plaster models were installed, only latter were they cast in bronze, which of course Patina’ed with time.
Of course the Sears tower, used to be the tallest in the world, is still the tallest in Chicago. I know, it had a name change a few years ago, but to me it will always be the Sears. I visited the observation deck almost 40 years ago when the building was new – before they added those sky boxes (look closely on the top, you can see them there). Since I visited the top of the Hancock for the first time, I felt no need to go to another observation deck.Looking towards Navy pier at dusk.Best view south is from the Ladies room at the Signature lounge.Craning my neck to see the traffic below. Fun to see the top of the building that houses the Bloomingdales and mall.

Many more pictures to follow, Chicago is a very fun city to visit, especially for architect buffs like me.

Leah

Patriotism

While the other Hawaiian Islands are prettier and more relaxing, Oahu has one thing they don’t have – Pearl Harbor.We didn’t visit the Arizona memorial, saw it from across the water, we did visit the Missouri.The ship upon which the Japanese surrendered in WWII. The sister ship, the Iowa, is in San Pedro, for all people in the LA area- I highly recommend you visit.Joel is smart, a company photographer took pictures of everyone – as in 1700 people. So Joel handed him my camera and asked him to to our picture – good job!We were seated in a large tent, the back had screening so we could see the memorial. Which is why this picture is a little fuzzy.I’m actually amazed at the clarity of this photo, as the program started this rainbow appeared.And stayed throughout General McChrystal’s fascinating talk. Before he spoke, we were introduced to a Vet who was on active duty in Pearl Harbor, on the infamous day that shall live on in history.Then it was on to a cocktail party on the Missouri, with a number of docents telling us the interesting history of this ship.These battleship guns were active during Dessert Storm in the early 90s and have a lot to do with why that conflict ended quickly.Other guns are tiny in comparison.The steel chains are huge.And to my eye beautiful.Even the rust is beautiful, a rare sight on a very well cared for ship.As the sun set, the old control tower for the airport, is off in the distance – pure Hawaii, palm trees at it’s base.The party continued at the Pearl Harbor museum of flying. I wish fighter jets were still painted like this.The party went on into the night, with music dancing and lots of food and drinks. The insurance business may not be sexy, but insurance people sure know how to have a good time as well as a meaningful one.

Leah

Out and about in Honolulu

In the lobby, under glass is a rare Hawaiian flag quilt. The four Hawaiian flags were modified, the Union Jack is facing the wrong way, I think this was done so the center design would stand out more. Hey, artistic license. The Royal coat of arms in done in the traditions Hawaiian appliqué style, as well as the quilting stitches that echo the crown. These quilts are very rare and this one is in beautiful shape. Most people never saw this, although it is proudly displayed in the lobby right across from the elevators. But then most people haven’t trained themselves to really look closely at their surroundings.

Of course I had to go visit a Quilt Shop and found one near the resort. The Calico Cat was well worth a visit.Imagine my delight in finding the store in a wonderful mid-century modern building. Right next to the Good Will drip off bins, oh well, cities have a life of their own, I can’t photoshop what I don’t like out.

Joel was very happy to join me, no, he didn’t stay in the store (which gave me time to really explore and buy some great patterns and fabric), he found a local coffee shop and enjoyed watching the city go by.The big development of this area was in the middle of last century – this actually looks closer to Art Deco than mid-century. The design along the side of the building could be part of either style. The balcony is traditional Hawaiian; open to let in the breezes. Aged and weathered because that is what the tropics will do.The Queen Theater built in the Art Deco Style in 1936 has been vacant for 20 years. There is a movement to try and restore the building and use it either for film or small theater. I hope they succeed, This is one of the most endangered old buildings in Honolulu, clearly the idea of conserving and readapting the old has yet to arrive in the Islands.An old house that has an historical designation. This storybook home was built in 1928 and is well loved and cared for.

Someone mentioned the many interesting gates in the Kahala neighborhood – a very expensive beach community.Although there are some large pieces of land, most of these homes are crammed in one next to the other, so of course for privacy people have walls and gates. The perfect canvas for some very impressive artwork done in metal.Ironworkers must be doing well here, at least they have a lot of creative license.The flora and fauna of Hawaii being a major inspiration.This gate could be at home anywhere, if it weren’t for the tropical plants around it.Getting artsy with glass.Bamboo as inspiration.Sometimes a gate just isn’t enough.This looks to me like an old WWII air-raid siren. Of course it may be newer and is actually a Tsunami siren. Or maybe it is from WWII and it’s been repurposed. Whenever I’m out walking I always look up, you never know what you will see.

Leah

Hawaii, the Fauna and people

I actually brought my camera to the beach.The water is really this blue. The Hawaiian archipelago was created by volcanos in the middle of the pacific ocean. There is nothing else around but deep blue sea.Not sure how much of the sand is natural and how much is brought in. Either way, a budding sandcastle designer was busy at work.The resort has a number of interesting pools, biggest is the swim with dolphins. They were very active and busy.Yup, the tail is similar to the fluke of a whale, probably because they are closely related.

There were turtles, manta rays and rainbow fish, but I never took a picture of them. We went on a snorkel and sail, didn’t bring my camera. Some things are best seen and hopefully remembered. The nice thing is that 20 years ago there weren’t many sea turtles – today there are an abundance of them on all the islands.Many resorts have the lobby wide open to the breezes, which means that avian visitors have no problem hoping on the tables.Hawaii is a destination for wedding from Japan, there were probably 25 brides on the resort, I only captured a few. Walking in all those layers of tule and petticoats isn’t easy! This little girl was fascinated of course.Unfortunately this bride got caught in the rain, I would have loved to see the whole dress, looks like some interesting beading.Sunset with fisherman, look closely under the palm tree, he’s there.

Leah

Hawaii, the flora

Palm trees swaying in the wind, iconic image of Hawaii.

I was lucky to spend five days in a lovely resort on the Island of Oahu. I have been lucky to have visited most of the Hawaiian Islands, Oahu, with the big city of Honolulu has never been a big draw, but when you are offered a trip – you go. The trade winds that sway the branches of the coconut palms are what makes these tropical islands so comfortable.It is always fun to be greeted with a lei, this is some orchid that has no scent but last a long time. I know because although I only wore this for maybe an hour, it was still holding its own when we left.The resort has an incredible wall of orchids, I didn’t enhance the colors, these are well cared for orchids. I will often buy orchids at TJs’ but I have yet to succeed in getting them to re-bloom even with all the fancy orchid food.

Back to the subject of leis, the fragrant ones are made from the Plumeria flowers.The trees grow everywhere and the flowers often fall to the ground. The white flower is the most common.Delicate pink is another variety.Of course I sat out on the beach and relaxed, I prefer shade to the hot bright sun of the tropics. Looking up at the tree I was under I noticed that every so often there was a bright red leaf. It is a leaf or a bract. The flower itself is very small and insignificant, but the bract draws the insects to the flowers. Another very common bract is the bougainvillea. The flower is the tiny white center. When we moved into our house I spent 10 days hacking away at very old growth bougainvillea on the side of the garage, it is a very messy thorny plant. I do love it on other peoples property. The values of red and pin are so bright and vivid.Except when they’re not.

Leah

Jerusalem moments

Taking my camera on a walk around Emek Refaim street in Jerusalem, you never know what little gems you’ll see.This is the wonderful architecture the German immigrants built in the mid 19th century. Included of course is local tile.Close up, this is straight from the Izniq tradition in Turkey, for all I know, these tiles may have come from there. At the time Israel was part of the Ottoman empire.A beautiful rondel.No, not an operating fountain, love how it’s askew. An orange tree in the background doesn’t hurt.I think this is a mailbox.Clock, streetlight. This is the old Switch station at the train station, now a restaurant.Love this bird, I should turn this into embroidery.Love the painted wagon.And a wagon wheel.

I’ve said this before, what photography has done for me is forced me to really look around at my surroundings and find the unique this is around all of us.

Leah

Cemeteries

I always find it fascinating to visit cemeteries, they tell you so much about the living. They also tell you so much about the past. Along a very busy trendy street in Jerusalem there is a high stone wall. In an area of prime real estate, this is quite an anomaly. Two signs let you know that cemeteries lie on the other side. These used to be closed to the public, now they are open on Fridays.

A German cemetery, started in 1878, not surprising since this area is known as the German Colony. A small sect of Messianic protestant Germans created three settlements in Israel (the other two were in Haifa and Jaffa). It is their beautiful old stone homes that adorn the two streets of Emek Refaim and Derech Beit Lechem. P1080694 Of course one of the first things you do is create a cemetery. P1080695 Some have the old German script. Another has the lovely saying, Auf Weidersehen, good bye.An interesting use of old rough stone and a marble plaque. This is one of the newer graves, during WWII the British, who controlled this area expelled all the people of German descent, most went to Australia. I wonder if any of the descendants can request to be buried here, there still is room.Next door is another cemetery, very different from the German one. This appears to be a Jewish grave. Also, the abbreviation of the state of Washington and the spelling of Jerusalem is strange, especially seeing that this grave is only 24 years old.Nearby is a grave with a cross, strange, Jews tend to segregate in death as well. I think this person may have been from the old Soviet block, that cross looks Russian Orthodox.Clearly Christian. There are plenty of Christian cemeteries in Israel, so this one is still a mystery.Of course most of the Christian population is Arab, hence the Arabic.

By now I had figured out that this isn’t your average cemetery, also there was a rather gaudy ugly mural along the walls, sorry I didn’t take pictures. Turns out this is the messianic cemetery. People who call themselves messianic Jews who are simply another small Christian sect, which explains why they have this place to themselves.Oh I love this stone, I have no idea if he is part of the sect, or simply someone who died in Jerusalem and the family bought the plot here.Only the Hebrew on the plaque outside really tells the truth – The International Cemetery of the League of the Messianic Mission.

I’m not sure when they acquired this plot of land, but it certainly makes for interesting viewing, seeing the diaspora of people that have come to Jerusalem and died here.

Amid the restaurants, boutiques and colorful people on the sidewalks, a visit with the dead is an experience unto itself.

Leah