Japanese cultural village

Have I mentioned how much I love LA? Always something new to discover, often with the help of the Atlas Obscura.

On a gloomy Sunday in June, I went off the the Arts District downtown for an adventure.Waiting for everyone to arrive, I started taking pictures of the surrounding buildings. The Arts District is famous for it’s murals and street art. Little did I know that we were headed inside this building... to be greeted by 5000 square feet of this.Since this was an industrial building with high ceilings, Peter built an interior roof.Now we get to why I love cultural appropriation – as it is called today. (in my youth we just called it the melting pot and celebrated the fact that we were all welcome to share in one another’s culture). Peter Lai is a Chinese man from Hong Kong. For many years he was quite the flamboyant designer, once here in America, he left his family tradition of designing for Chinese theater and TV and designed high-end couture for a clientele in San Marino. He also developed a love for everything Japanese, especially the Kabuki theater.  So he built a miniature Japanese village in his loft. He is an avid collector, here showing us an old store register, listing the inventory and what has sold.Everywhere one looks there is stuff! I realized quickly that his inspiration is Japanese theater – not the sparse simple design we associate with Japan. In the fall he is going to take a practical exam to become an official Kabuki dancer. He has been dancing for 17 years, his Mentor is 95 years old, if he is going to pass his exam, he has to do it soon.A Temari ball caught my eye. He tends to collect many items, this was the only such ball that I saw.He did have a basket full of Darumas.  A few words about Kabuki, traditionally it was performed only by men, in the early 20th century it opened to women as well. Guess what happened? The men left, today there are hardly any male Kabuki dancers, so when Peter becomes official, he will be the first male Kabuki dancer in his studio in a very long time.

A few words about Kabuki, traditionally it was performed only by men, in the early 20th century it opened to women as well. Guess what happened? The men left, today there are hardly any male Kabuki dancers, so when Peter becomes official, he will be the first male Kabuki dancer in his studio in a very long time.In this space there is of course, a theater for performances, I think it can hold 45 people. In front of some of the seating cushions, were bento boxes wrapped in the Furoshiki technique, a delight for the textile crafter in me.Peter isn’t a purist, he is theatrical! Behind him is a Chinese opium bed. He is holding the original high heel shoe – for a man! Next to him is a Chinese garment, turns out he found the skirt but couldn’t find a matching top, so he removed the bands off the back of the skirt and incorporated them into a matching jacket. A purist would cringe, but for Peter, unless he is taking the Kabuki exam, anything goes. He has performed his dances for local audiences here, and as long as he doesn’t call it pure Kabuki, he feels he combine what he wants. I like his attitude!There is a dressing and makeup room, full of wigs, hair ornaments and face makeup. I zoomed in on the many combs used for the wigs. He even modeled a young man’s wig as well as an older mans’ wig. This one was gray and had a large bald spot on the top!I think Betty Boop loves her new costume!  Most of the kimonos he owns are for the theater, not street wear or even wedding kimonos. I could tell because of the garish colors and the heavy use of gold and silver thread. All this is very necessary on stage, but would be considered gauche in everyday life.From early teens until late 20s’ Peter worked in the family theatrical costume workshop. It was then sold and went out of business, so Peter has had to buy back costumes the family made. He should be a consultant on any production of Chinese movie made here in America, he knows the difference between all the dynasties and what they wore. While he still had his clothing store in San Marino, he would often remove such a dragon and put in on a lovely evening jacket.What a workroom! For him this is small, he no longer is making clothes but is still updating items and making a new costume here and there. He is selling off fabric, buttons, and trims.It was so nice to see a solid industrial Juki still at work.Anyone who visits the studio is welcome to buy one of his creations for a very steep discount.Just to show you how eclectic he is, this steampunk mask would sell for a very nice price!  I don’t think this was for sale.

 

 

 

Leah

San Gabriel Mission Playhouse

Long before Hollywood became synonymous with the southland, plays and large productions were part of the landscape.

In 1912, the Mission Play was performed in Plaza Park right next to the Mission. This four and a half hour production told the story of the California missions  and was held in a rather rickety structure right next to the train tracks. That may explain the four and a half hours, constantly having to stop for the train.

P1140594By 1927 a playhouse was built specifically to house this grand play. The exterior is based on Mission San Antonio de Padua, up on the central coast. The play only survived a few more years, the depression took it’s toll.P1140595The bell is not quite as impressive as even the small bells on the mission. they are here for decoration, not to call the faithful to Church.P1140596I love things like this wonderful sconce, I’m not sure what I’d call the style? New Gothic maybe?

P1140603The interior is even more impressive than the facade. Since this was built for a live show, there are plenty of dressing rooms, unlike many of our movie palaces – that really can only show movies.

At the playhouse there are many cultural performances as well as the venue being available for rent.P1140607Today the theater is home to a Wurlitzer theater organ. A magical piece of equipment that would accompany the silent movies. Sort of a one man Foley engineer.  In all Wurlitzer produced over 2.200 of these mighty machines. A few are in their original location, this was moved here from New York in 1968, but it took many years to bring it up to quality standards.  We enjoyed a few minutes of it’s majestic voice.P1140606I’m not sure how many pipes there are, thousands?  Behind this screen (and another on the other side of the stage) are bellows that open and shut to modulate the sound.

The whole theater has a mishmash of design styles. P1140613Sort of Aztec?P1140611Most of the decorations are made from plaster, and through the years have needed cleaning and repainting.P1140612The upkeep is amazing.P1140604P1140623On the walls there are displayed ten banners, each different. Once again, a sort of gothic feel. These are original to the building and have never been removed, although they have been cleaned in place.

One can really get a crick in the neck from looking up at the ceiling.P1140610Among the detailsP1140620A steer. As well as conquistadors.P1140622Almost 20 years ago,  when the ceiling was cleaned and repainted the artist used people connected to the theater as models for these four heads. Well he used three models, the 4th one is a self portrait. Why not, he did all the work, why not put himself into the artwork.

One of these days I have to go back with friends to see a performance here, it really would be a lot of fun.

 

Leah

Little towns in California

Paso Robles, CAOur first stop was Paso Robles, an old agriculture town that is getting a real boost from the wine industry. Wonderful refurbished old building.P1110496With a wonderful old time candy shop, that isn’t really all that old.P1110497There is a wonderful large green square, this building was very important, if only because of the clocks that are visible from all directions.P1110501Another old building that got a stucco coating at some point, I do like how they have broken through it to show the old brick.P1110500A modern information booth that has a very old timey feel.P1110505Art Deco Theater, no longer in use, a more modern one is just one block over. I do hope one of those tasting rooms takes over.P1110512Sometimes it’s not the buildings, it’s the wonderful juxtaposition of color. Primaries anyone?peanutsSanta Rosa doesn’t have a lot to offer. Sure, they have these big fiberglass sculptures that honor the Peanuts.  Charles Shultz lived here for years. They also named their airport after him.  At least Charlie himself is cast in bronze and isn’t fading and aging like the others.Mendocino Hotel The hotel we stayed at in Mendocino.Our room was right off the front balcony to the left of the wooden swing. Yes, we sat out there and reveled in the view.  Mendo is getting a whole post of it’s own!P1110694Calistoga in the very North Western part of Napa Valley. That Venetian Lion is very popular.P1110695Wonderful old brick buildings. Using different colors and playing with size they created some very interesting facades.P1110693Due to our litigious society, all the brick buildings have this sign. Sure it is good advice, but  I’m thinking the city hopes it gives them cover if people are injured near these buildings during an earthquake.Calistoga townhallCalistoga City hall, adorable isn’t it?  The police station across the street is much bigger and more modern.P1110707Look down! always interesting things right under our feet.P1110716And finally Healdsburg. An adorable little town, also has a wonderful center green with a bandstand.  I haven’t done any research, but I’m thinking this was a bank. Who else could afford this Gladding McBean tile?  And yes, I’m saying Gladding McBean without any research either, since the detail is impeccable and there is no other company around that did this kind of work.P1110717P1110718More glazed terracotta.P1110722Got to love the Old Theater. Don’t know how old this sign is.P1110723These raven are on the box office.  They look old to me.

Yes, we did pass through other towns, but there is only so much I can share. Yes Cloverdale had an adorable Church and wonderful old Victorian homes, but no, I didn’t get any pictures.

Leah

Two ways to see Hollywood

Most people who come the Hollywood Blvd. at Highland come to see this.Recently UpdatedI’ve done this myself, I’ve been here with the grandkids taking pictures with this exact Minnie Mouse.

Last weekend I came here for a friend’s wedding shower. Of course my interest was different, it was to get a closer look at the buildings.IMG_3795The famous El Capitan theater.  Thank you Disney for refurbishing this wonderful theater, most people go for the movies and live shows. Me, I’m interested right now in the exterior.  Built for live theater by  Stiles O. Clements  in 1926. At the time, the main theater district was still downtown on Broadway. This was the largest legitimate theater in Hollywood – everything else was most probably burlesque.  In 1941 it was converted to a movie theater.  The interior is incredible as well, but I didn’t go inside.   One thing to notice is that the fire escape is built into the building, except for the final balcony with a drop down ladder to the street.El Capitan TheaterThe exterior is covered in wonderful spanish inspired cast concrete.  This is the same period when glazed terra-cotta tiles and decorations become a popular way of cladding a building. You can get a better view of the wonderful balcony at the end of the fire escape.IMG_3801Next door and predating the theater by 5 years in the Masonic Temple. The heading reads FREEMASONRY BUILDS IT’S TEMPLES AMONG THE NATIONS AND IN THE HEARTS OF MEN

Many Hollywood stars and moguls were Freemasons. Aside from their meeting hall they also had clubs and a ballroom. Apparently there was a tunnel connecting this building to Grauman’s Chinese Theater across the street. It was used to smuggle alcohol during prohibition. these days the subway runs under the street and the tunnel is no longer accessible. It is now owned by Disney and as you can see, Jimmy Kimmel broadcasts his show from him. Hollywood and HighlandIt was up into the large open Mall, Hollywood and Highland. Here you can see people viewing the Hollywood sign from the center of this great arch.    The interesting design is a recreation of the set for DW Griffith’s movie – Intolerance.  This set remained in the Hollywood hills for 4 years after filming – only to be dismantled in 1919.

This is the Babylonian section. Clearly Griffith didn’t know much about Babylon, these winged figures are Assyrian, an even older culture. To see some original Assyrian Panels, with this exact figure – go over to LACMA.IMG_3844Elephants were also a big part of the set, not sure if they are any more accurate than the winged deities. IMG_3846Yes, I went up to that balcony and took the same picture that millions of others do. Sorry it’s somewhat blurry. I didn’t bring my good camera.  Of course as someone who loves walking the old neighborhoods of LA I can tell you there are much better vista points for this iconic sign.

I always tell people, no matter where they are walking, no matter what city. Look up, stop for a moment and really take at the buildings around you, you will be surprised by what you see.

Leah

I love LA, Last Remaining Seats

In my daily life I don’t think much about LA as Hollywood. Most of us live  very ordinary lives, even those who work in the business.                                                                                                        Things are different in June. The Last Remaining Seats put on by the LA conservancy.  For 28 years their biggest fundraiser has been a chance to view classic movies in the classic theaters along Broadway.

This year the old United Artist Theater is back in the game.  Ace Hotels bought the theater and adjacent building a few years ago and created a wonderful boutique hotel. They continued the wonderful work of Dr. Gene Scott of the University Cathedral Church. They occupied the theater for 20 years. Churches don’t make changes to theaters when they own them, they have no problem with the raked floors and often are fine with the heavy ornamentation of these old movie palaces. Dr. Scott loved and cared for this theater. Ace hotels has done many necessary upgrades as well.

It was quite an honor that the debut of the Theater was the movie Back to the Future. We arrived early, to get in line, no reserved seats. This is what greeted us at the front door.DeLorean from Back to the Future.A local car buff recently purchased the original  DeLaorean from a prop house.  IMG_3864 - Version 2That is the overboard on the passenger seat.IMG_3862This one already has the Fushion tank that Dr. Brown brings back from the future.

The line to get in wound around the block, true to my name – no idle hands even in line.IMG_3868Me knitting a sock.

Then it was into the lobby where my mind was blown.  Sorry about the quality of the photos. I brought my small camera, not very good for dark shots. But how can I not share this incredible building??IMG_3878Gothic is probably the best way to describe the decor.IMG_3881I’m glad they retained some of the church decorations. Most people in LA are familiar with the ‘Jesus Saves’ sign that stood atop the building for years, it has been reinstalled behind the building. Unfortunately one aspect of all the construction going on downtown is that it isn’t as visible as it used to be. At least it is still there.Theater in the Ace HotelWe rushed in, grabbed seats as well as pictures, clearly I’m not the only one. Then out again to explore.United Artist muralSorry this is so grainy but I had to get some Studio Hubris in here. Murals, here are better images as well.  For some reason, being half a block south of 9th street put this theater  out of the district. The Orpheum is half a block away and was very successful. This one – not so much.IMG_3895This is shot from the upper balcony, love how the mirror reflects the mob down in the lobby.IMG_3874Details of the ceilingIMG_3897Unknown sculpture down by the women’s bathrooms.

Then it was on to the movie. One great thing about Last Remaining Seats is that before each movie there is a short live offering. This time it was Leonard Maltin interviewing, Lea Thompson – Lorraine, Claudia Wells – Jennifer and  Donald Fullilove – who will become mayor in the future. He was having so much fun taking photos of us.

An amazing Los Angeles experience, have I mentioned how much I love this city?

Leah