It’s that time of year again, the movie costume show at FIDM

Once again I went with some fabric and costume loving friends to FIDM. One of them was a professor of costume design – can’t get better company than that! I’m not mentioning which films, because in most cases I don’t know. The only one I saw was La La Land, and the costumes were nothing to write home about.I am sharing only a few images of the full garments, I’m finding that it’s the details I love. Sure on a big screen this is what pops out at you.But this is what pops out at me, the details. The materials used, the subtlety, the effect that light has.The amazingness of silk. Just using different silks, slight changes in the shades of color. A little fabric manipultion, and we are ready to go!The fantasy films are where the mens’ costumes thrive. Really what can you do with a business suit? But create a fantasy warrior and go to town on the textures! Yes, that is a red cape, which highlights all of the wonderful braid, fabric and leather.Leather, coarsely woven fabric, andmetallicc embroidery! As well as some fur. Who says men can’t have fun?A closer look, metal work and some bright purple silk. I’m sorry the focus isn’t great. I can’t use my flash. But I think you get the idea.The robe is made of those ball chains. For some reason I adore those chains. So to see a full length garment made out of them! Swoon! Really I need to see the movie to see how it moves, but I forgot which on it is.

OK, this is from Alice Through the looking Glass.  We immediately decided that the nettle that the Red Queen is wearing (maybe it’s not the Red Queen, I’m just making a guess here), was made on a three D printer. I don’t know if this is Alice, what I do know is the colors and the Chinese influences are wonderful.I love when a designer references the source but does her own thing. In this case it is Colleen Atwood, she costumed at least three of the movies in the show. In a you-tube video she discusses this outfit with it’s handwork and Chinese influence.Love the shoes!!! The eel is too high for me, but oh my, these are gorgeous.Alongside the movie costumes there is always a smaller exhibit. In this case costumes and clothes from the 1920s. This dress was used in the Orient Express. I would wear it today! A knit dress with embroidery and insets. The detail! The color! I want this dress!

So if you have a chance, get over to FIDM, this year the exhibit is excellent. Probably because of Colleen Atwood, but not only her. Last year was very meh. This being the 25th year they really went after the best costumes the movies had to offer.

Leah

Road to California

Quilt shows are a wonderful thing. We used to have a few in Southern California, these days, the one big one is Road to California in Ontario.

I ended up going on my own, which was just fine, by own pace, my own interest. I bumped into many other quilters I know, which is always fun. I bought some interesting rulers, more on those later. For now, I’m including pictures I took.I love everything about this, the subject, the use of tumbling blocks in different size. Incorporating them into Raggedy Ann. And who doesn’t love Raggedy Ann! The applique, the quilting, this was one of my favorites.Capturing a photo in fabric. Not something I ever do, but this is why I go to shows – to see what others are doing.This was in a category named put a bird on it. I’m in love.

From here on out, it will be in  segments, not whole quilts, because that is the mood I was in.Two examples from the Tent makers of Cairo Egypt, these wonderful applique examples were meant to be hung on tent walls. In my opinion,    they are suitable for any wall. Related but different. This is a quilt, called Isfahan. All hand work, applique, and quilting. An example of the wonderful tile work in the mosque in Isfahan, Iran. Many of us look at another medium and say to ourselves – that would make a great quilt. This woman went ahead and did it.Paint and embroidery. Stars and mandalas. One of the award-winning quilts, great paper piecing, fine detail in the quilting. Both women came from Illinois, a real honor for them.I have plans for a double wedding ring, always happy to see how others interpret it. Applique, something else I admire without wanting to do myself.

And finally, I love owlsBut this chicken is just too adorable not to include!

Leah

Man Mode, or the current zeitgeist

Similar things happen at the same time, it’s the zeitgeist. So while LAMCA has it’s Reigning Men Exhibition, FIDM has Man Mode.IMG_4730Much smaller of course, but the same themes, like how to make menswear exciting for the runway.IMG_4725Or, computer generated desgin on printed fabric.IMG_4729In the accesory catagory, it’s all about the tie, really the only place a businessman can hope to express himself.IMG_4727Then there is the banyan, or house coat, for lounging around the house. He still looks overdressed, Fez and all.IMG_4728At least the embroidery is delightful. Looks hand embroidered in the good sense of homemade. Good quality but a certain freedom of design.IMG_4720Unlike 18th Century formal wear that was exquisitly embroidered, also by hand, but by people working in an atelier. About as close as machine perfection that you could find in those days.IMG_4726So did this caftan come west? Was it worn by a man of liesure in Europe? Or was it saved from some nomads tent and cherished as a beautiful example of central Asian textile and not as a garment to be worn?IMG_4721A fabulous example of the Smoking Jacket, made from Cigar silks. There ae many jackets and quilts that took advantage of these thin strips of silk.IMG_4722Even with the company names stamped right in the middle. Lovely hand embroidery was used to attach one ribbon to the next. Using silk thread in matching colors, the gold and red.IMG_4718And finally, a little humor. How riske are this boxer shorts. A true fantasy for any man.

Leah

Fashion at LACMA

LACMA has a wonderful department of Fashion and Textiles. So it makes sense that they would be the first to put on a major exhibit of men’s fashion,

Kay Spilker is the curator who has been responsible for putting on many of the wonderful fashion exhibits. As a docent I always enjoy the behind the scenes lecture that she shares with us.IMG_5134I always learn something new.  In the late 18th century wealthy young Englishmen went to Italy for the Grand Tour. Before they left home they would have looked like the model on the left – everything changed when they came back. Bright colors, tighter pants, shorter jackets, bigger wigs and all kinds of extra finery, from feathers, cocades, and tassles.  They were then called: Macaroni.

I think back to the song we sang in childhood. Yankee Doodle went to town a’ riding on a pony. Put a feather in his cap and called it Macaroni.

I never understood that line, I always wondered if I misunderstood the lyrics. Turns out that this is accurate. The English made fun of the simple colonials in America, who of course wanted to copy the fancy young men in England. The Americans turned the tables on the Brits, they adopted the song as their own and often sang it during the Revolutionary War. IMG_5125I wasn’t paying attention to the names of the designers, but I’ve always liked Viviane Westwood. The accuracy of matching the plaids is incredible. And the shoes, love the shoes. I would love to wear this outfit myself.IMG_5128Another take on plaid, or actually houndstooth. What grabbed me here isn’t so much the deconstruction but rather the antlers on the deer stalker hat. IMG_5126The original Hawaiian shirt was made from the brightest Japanese silk. I can’t get over the deep, deep purple. IMG_5133
Another way of using silk, tie silk to be exact. Like the previous outfit – these are runway fashions, not street wear.IMG_5130There was a lot of fine detailed embroidery, mostly on court garments. There clearly have been those periods in history when men were just as decked out in finery as the women.IMG_5129They even had the same kind of undergarments and dressing needs as women. Of course making fun of the Dandy in the 19th century was no different than today.  Most of the clothes in this show are very very expensive, but none more so then theseIMG_5132Shoes made from money.IMG_5131My favorite part of the exhibit was being able to share it with my son and son in law.

The next exhibit was Royal Hawaiian featherwear.  Beautiful, colorful and very delicate. I really didn’t read much about it, I just enjoyed the visual aspects.IMG_5138For the royal men – bright capes.IMG_5137For the women, only feathered crowns on their heads.IMG_5135I don’t know much about this tradition. What I do know is that in tropical climates, with bright feathered birds, humans will use those feathers for decoration.  The feathers may be delicate, but the color doesn’t fade.

I am grateful that LACMA puts on these exhibits. I’m not very interested in many of the art exhibits, but crafts, or should I say high craftsmanship always interests me.

Leah

Kathy Doughty, of Material Obsession visits LAMQG

There are so many reasons to belong to a quilt guild, especially a modern one, being able to meet contemporary quilt designers is just one of the perks.IMG_4906Kathy is an American who moved to Australia years ago, it was there she was introduced to quilting. She has since opened a store in Sydney called Material Obsession. Being far from the traditional quilting world she has really developed a style that is all her own. IMG_4912She is here in the States for 6 weeks, her husband came along, and two of her three sons are in the States right now. More on them later.

I can really relate to her colors and combinations. What is wonderful here is that the stripes aren’t pieced, she has used a Kaffe Fassett print. She uses many of his fabrics, which are often very busy.IMG_4913Here is an example of using just solids, which is rare for her. This is one of the things I love, she has a certain style, but she experiments and tries all kinds of things, so that her overall style is very comprehensive. It is not just a very narrow approach.IMG_4916Her husband was holding up all the quilts and giving us color commentary along the way. I can see why she moved to Australia for him! Also, this is just one of three boys – good job mom!

Back to the quilt, solid with an Ikat border, combing some print with the solids.IMG_4917A close up of her quilting, most of her quilting is by hand with pearl cotton. Today many quilters are doing this, but she came up with this on her own in Australia, not being exposed to the very fine 15 stitches to an inch hand quilting that many of us learned 30 years ago.  Both are great options. With her bright colors, this quilting just enhances the whole quilt.IMG_4918My friend Irene mentioned that she either uses prints or solids, but doesn’t really combine them in a quilt. This is where taking pictures gives a much fuller image of her work. Here is a great example of using both print and solid in a quilt. She spoke about getting high contrast, which happens in the solid triangle bands.IMG_4925The quilts are all huge! This was the class she taught on Saturday. I’m sorry I missed it, what with not knowing exactly when Cameron would be born, I didn’t sign up. IMG_4927Kathy took part in a red and white challenge, only two colors! She said it was soooo hard for her! At least here we see the adorable husband and son as well as our secretary hard at work taking notes. Hi Tess!IMG_4920I can really relate to this ability to work only with very busy prints and yet get real contrast.IMG_4924Or playing with only stripes and polka dots! With some added appliqué. IMG_4923Here are chic Kisses on a large scale. I took this class with Jenny Pedigo, I didn’t have very good success in the class, but seeing this version makes me want to go back and try again. IMG_4935Take a close look at the quilt, in creating the girls, Kathy made sure to have some kind of half circle in the print to create the hair! That is really working with the prints.IMG_4928A more traditional layout of blocks, also, notice the growing pile of quilts! She brought 5 suitcases from Australia with the quilts alone! I’m wondering where they fit in their clothes, 6 weeks of travel can’t happen with just a carry-on.IMG_4933Wonderful use of fabrics, I think this is what really draws me to her work.IMG_4937This is made with her own line of fabrics, I understand the need to use one line in a sample. This is a big way of selling the fabric, but it’s missing contrast, other prints thrown in here would have made this sing.IMG_4938A whole cloth quilt with broderie perse. This is her newest line. Showing how to work it as a whole cloth. There were also examples of how the print looks when it is cut and pieced.

What a wonderful evening, I have to go back now and really look at some of these images. There is so much I can learn from Kathy. Which is what the creative world is all about – learning from one another.

Leah

Uncommon Threads

Thanks to my friend Ellen I found out about a wonderful exhibit here in the valley. It is impossible to keep up with everything that is going on, it helps to have friends in the know who share the information.

The Valley is really coming into it’s own. Occupying a lovely bright space in the Mid-valley, The San Fernando Valley Arts & Cultural Center is making it’s mark. Made up of many smaller groups of creatives, this is a great exhibit space.Screenshot 2016-04-27 12.10.57 Welcome to Uncommon Threads, a collaborations between four fiber arts groups. Surface Art Association, Extreme Quilters, Southern California Handweavers Guild and Frayed Edges, unfortunately I couldn’t find a website for them.P1140393Members of each guild need to sit in the gallery while it is open to the public. So I met Linda Stone, she has quite a few pieces in the exhibit. Being a member of two of the groups helps.  Hollywood and Highland, LInda StoneThis quilt was on display at Paducah a few years ago, Linda does realism very well.P1140405She has been branching out into the modern as well. A sign of a good artist, one who keeps on learning.

P1140398It’s a good thing Maureen  Cox signed this piece, we were friends years ago but then drifted apart. For a few years now she has been staining fabric with rust and then creating the artwork from there.

This exhibit was all by women artists. I am sure many people look upon this as craft and not as art. I am the opposite, I find that the creativity has moved to the craft world and the art world is just busy being either obnoxious, political or down right ugly.P1140401I was there the very first day it opened, so not all the artwork had labels yet.  While this is clearly a quilt, it is also a from of collage.P1140397By the same artist, Susan Gesundheit, this is a fabric collage, I don’t see any quilting here. Most of the quilts are considered art quilts, if only because they are small and are hanging on the walls.P1140395This artist used vinyl in a very interesting literal way. For me coming to this kind of show is a real pleasure. I see names of people I have known in the past and see how their art has developed. I see new art I’ve never seen before and I get inspired, not to copy or recreate, but simply to enjoy good textile art.P1140408I LOVE weaving, I did learn how to weave on an eight heddle loom.  One has to pick and choose, I can’t do everything so I don’t weave, but I really appreciate what goes into it. P1140407Like here, a ‘simple’ stole, but look at the difference between the front and the back! The colors really change drastically.P1140409Achieving three dimensionality.P1140411Even a display of scarves makes my heart sing. P1140412Of course I react to bright colors…P1140414…and three dimensional objects like these birds.P1140416Or this wonderful dancing woman.

By all means, take the time and come out to the valley, you won’t regret seeing this exhibit.

 

Leah

The Brewery

Another great day with the Obscura society LA. As I  drive down the 5 freeway, I see  the tall smoke stack just on the northeastern edge of downtown. P1140020Years ago I visited here, it is an artist colony. So when the opportunity came to visit again, I jumped at the opportunity.

The Brewery is a fascinating place. Built in 1903 by the Edison company as their Electric Steam power plant – hence the very tall tower.  Later part of the complex was taken over by Pabst Blue Ribbon Brewery – which is where the complex gets its name.  Today we are so used to micro breweries, we forget that this is still a very large scale industry. Heck, even in the valley we have the massive Anheuser Busch Brewery right along side the 405 freeway.P1140007About 30 years ago the owners of the abandoned complex turned it into artists lofts, and it has been one of the largest thriving artist complexes every since. Barbara’s Brewery is in the middle of the complex and the artists often meet there for beer and food.P1140005This emblem on the building signifies that this is a multiuse building, artists both live and work in here. Of course this symbol is on all the buildings in the brewery and throught the Arts District where it originated. P1140008The catwalk connects two parts of the actual brewery.P1140019While crossing from one studio to another, I captured this image. The tree top, the shadows.P1140021As we entered the next building, the old stencils remain. The walls of this building are very thick.P1140009The first loft we visited was the artist Dave Lefner , here he is in black in his loft. Btw, pay attention to the image behind the stair case, this is an image from the second artist we visited, Kelly Reemstsen. She asked us not to photograph her work since she is prepping for a show, so of course I didn’t. But this is an older image of hers and Dave owns it, so you can get a feel for her work.P1140012Of the four artists we saw, I loved Dave’s work the most. There is my neighbor, the clown from Circus Liquor. Dave works in a very interesting technique of linocut printing. The fact that he achieves from 7 to 10 or 11 colors from one block in amazing.  He also mentioned how most people think of neon as a night time kind of art, but he just loves how the shadows are reflected during the day.P1140018I love the artwork and the mirror on the wall that just reflected the people and the other wall back at me, as well as the old fashioned kind of selfie.P1140013Close up of machinery! You should know by now how much I love this. This is a letterpress, not very useful for Dave’s work, but he just purchased a whole case of movable type, so we’ll see how that informs his art.P1140015This is the actual press he uses, with some of the linoleum blocks on it.  I am fascinated by the techinque and his work, who knows, maybe on the spring Artwalk I’ll pay a longer visit to the studio.

We then went to Kelly’s  studio. No pictures. The space itself was really large, her living space separated out from the studio by large glass doors.  IMG_4442I did get these from the artists, so the Girl with the chain saw is Kelly’s art and the wonderful painting that uses the Eastern Columbia building is by the next artist we visited.

Then on our way to the next loft there was outdoor art to admire.P1140027Next to the cowboy there is an emormous tire- probably from some massive landcover. For me this image is about all the textures, even if they got somewhat washed out in the bright light.

Teale Hathaway is our next visit. I’ll be honest, I could have taken pictures but I didn’t. I love her art as well, but didn’t feel I could capture it with my camera. Most of her art relates to architecture in LA, so what is not to love!P1140026She has a little outdoor patio and has created her own chandelier tree, which needless to say, I love.

The final artist was Coop, take a look at his website. He does very strong graphics, graphic novels blown up very large.  Nothing that I would ever want to own, but I liked his work.  It’s just not my style.

From there we went on to look at graffiti, that will be another post.

Leah

24th annual Art of Motion Picture Costume design

I was still a student at FIDM when the first exhibit of Costumes from the movies, took place. In those days downtown was very scary and I didn’t venture much beyond FIDM or the garment district.IMG_4387This masked angel greeted me daily, I always have fond warm feelings when I see her.

I haven’t seen all 24 exhibits, I’ve missed a few through the years but I have been to most of them. Sorry to say, this year was a major disappointment.

IMG_4389This was exciting, our friend’s daughter got five of her costumes in the show!IMG_4390I didn’t see the movie, to be honest I don’t think I saw any of the movies. I do like Courtney’s designs. Of course I love the big hand knit scarf, the detail on the vest is wonderful as well. She is very good at creating costumes for that dusty, 1930’s look.IMG_4393Since I really don’t know the movies, I won’t be mentioning the names. This is the first time that photography has been allowed, I guess they just gave up trying to prevent it with all the phones around  Here is another scarf, can’t tell if it’s hand knit or crocheted. I like the trim on the collar of the shirt, these are the small details I find intriguing.

Everyone I know has gone gaga over the Cinderella dress. To me it was standard movie costuming – shiny fabric, not much fine detail, but I’m sure it shimmered and glowed on screen.IMG_4388You can see it in the background of this dress. I found the stepsisters dresses much more interesting. The lace detail on the collar as well as on the sleeves. IMG_4399The overlay fabric is painted, not embroidered. On Screen I’m sure it read as lovely embroidery. There was another dress that was very clearly painted as well. Years ago I remember seeing many costumes like that, poor construction, paint, puffy paint, big plastic gems. And then slowly that faded away as higher definition cameras came into use, the costumes would be impeccably made – even if those watching the movie could never tell the difference.IMG_4398Another lovely detail is in the reticule – or purse and of course the gloves.

I mentioned being disappointed, not only were many of the movies complete unknowns, the quality of the costumes just wasn’t exciting – from a Seamstress point of view.

IMG_4392The iconic images from Star Wars, it would have been so much fun had they been able to procure the original costumes, I’m sure these are much better made.

I didn’t find much excitement in the overall show. (Mad Max won for best costume???  Really??) I haven’t watched the Oscars in years, I got tired of the preening and the political pronouncements. Shut up and act, be gracious don’t be a scold. So I wasn’t surprised that this exhibit was dull and boring. Maybe they couldn’t get costumes from big movies, but they sort turned the whole show into a didactic about how the costumes inform the movie. Boring. Oh wait, last year there was an exhibit at the new Motion picture museum next to LACMA that did just that, and did it extremely well.IMG_4395So I looked for details. I’m glad to see that period pieces still are very elaborate.  For me, to see the inset ruched ribbon on the bodice continue down the front of the dress as a free flowing ribbon – is exciting.IMG_4414Along side the movie costumes, FIDM always displays historic costumes from their permanent collection. The idea being – look to the past to inform the present.  It is clear to see from this dress how the designer of the previous one created their own interest on what is a red dress. Not copying, simply being inspired.IMG_4405That inspiration follows through in a modern movie. There is detail in this simple little dress that probably wasn’t dictated by the story. The little waist band and the placement of the wonderful large border.  This is what I’m looking for when I come to this exhibit, to see those little touches that go unnoticed by most movie goers – but help build a more complex and fulfilling picture.IMG_4403Another period piece, oh my! Look at the placement of the stripes! The attention to detail is exciting!  IMG_4404Or these little wings on this suit. That takes a lot of planning as well as time and effort to create that effect. Of course I also notice the impeccable buttonholes and self fabric covered buttons.IMG_4408Sometimes the detail is in the shoes. I’m not sure if when the costumes are loaned to FIDM that they come with all the accessories or if FIDM has to use their own. They have a vast collection, so that is not a problem. Although I don’t wear very high heels anymore – I would love to find shoes like these!IMG_4409Most mens costumes are boring, sorry a suit is a suit. I’m pretty sure these shoes came with the ensemble because the shirt was the exact color of teal.  I know Hush Puppies made two tone shoes for a while. Not sure they are fashionable anymore, but these are fancy dress shoes!  Something else I’d love to see out in the world.

I’m glad I saw the exhibit, especially since I bumped into a fellow sewist in the Scholarship Store.  We met two years ago at an outing that some sewing bloggers organized. Oh and yes, I did buy some knit fabric for a dress and a skirt for $6, as well as some zippers. One can never have too many zippers.

Leah