How does one pronounce Natchitoches? That is the question, it is the oldest non native settlement in Louisiana – yes, even older than New Orleans.
On our drive in, we stopped for lunch, I asked a woman how do I pronounce the name of that city – she happened to have grown up there. Naki-dish.
upon arriving at our hotel, a former bank btw, I used my new found knowledge. The receptionist was floored, no one has come in here knowing the correct pronunciation. Nailed it!
I didn’t take a lot of pictures, here is the covered walkway right next to the river – very reminiscent of New Orleans.
This is a fabulous store, part hardware, part general and a few gifts. Old time toys abounded. I found an old glass frog – the kind one used for floral arrangements back in the 50-60s’. Yes, I am using it now.
Love the fall colors. At our hotel, they offer wine in the afternoon. we met another couple, Nancy and Tom from Athens Georgia. We spent a lovely afternoon together and went out to dinner. There we met the mayor of Natchitoches. He was proudly wearing the sweatshirt of the local college. Northwestern (Louisiana). I kidded that I was born near the other Northwestern, but I’m sure it’s not a good as the one here.
You can see the Cane river right down below, I was thrilled by these massive hanging baskets. That is what humidity, rain and heat will get you.
One thing Natchitoches is famous for is this is the location where Steel Magnolias was filmed. So on the flight home, we found the movie and watched it. Quite enjoyable, a great cast. Also, they don’t make movies like that anymore and it’s more the pity. Yes, there were some very recognizable scenes in downtown and along the river front – guess what, in over 30 years, things haven’t changed.
Then it was on to New Orleans, our last stop. We stayed in the warehouse district. Here, adaptive reuse from some kind of office building to apartments. Well, I checked, they were either printers, makers of Asbestos or nowadays a trucking company. I do love the blade sign, lit up at night it must be beautiful.
We walked over to the French Quarter, had to visit good old general Jackson, before he became president.
with me in the foreground and the church behind.
From another angle.
These signs are all over the French Quarter. Oh and Natchitoches was settled in 1742 by French Fur Trappers who made their way south. It isn’t on the Mississippi, but close enough.
Of course we had beignets at Cafe Du Monde, although I think the ones at Cafe Beignet are better – if memory serves.
Diabetes on a plate, it’s what New Orleans is about. Well, that and music and good drinks and… and… and…
One thing I haven’t mentioned much of is the Jewish community in the south. It was always smaller than the north, but it was there. The biggest community was in Memphis, probably still is. Sure a ton of Jews are moving to Nashville these days – but most don’t care about Judaism.
It was nice to see a beautiful large synagogue in the middle of downtown Natchez, not off on the edge somewhere. A number of the beautiful houses were also built by the Jewish merchants that came and were part of the cotton trade.
This is 11 years before Los Angeles had a Jewish Temple, I know, we are the Wild West, but this tells me a lot. The large Jewish migration starts along with the Germans in 1848, so maybe before that there wasn’t much difference in the size of Jewish populations between north and south.
Side view of the Temple. Today there is an effort to save the building. There really isn’t much of a Jewish Community here anymore. I hope they do save it and I hope that other Jewish communities in the south come and use the building from time to time. Its’ not a synagogue if it’s just an empty relic.
We toured inside a local house, and from the second floor balcony got a better view of the dome on the temple.
The home was Magnolia Hall, today the headquarters of the Garden Club. The club used to be a women only club, today they have men as well. Such as our guide. The home was built in 1858, it went through many iterations, so what we saw as far as furnishings were all accurate to the period, but none came from the house.
I enjoyed these Parisian porcelains, named thus because they aren’t from the big famous porcelain manufacturers, but they are from Paris. This one isn’t porcelain, oops.
A very impressive silver tea and coffee set. Since the Garden Club owns the house they not only give tours. They also have events here and yes, the house is available for rent. The Garden Club is similar to the Pasadena Hunt Club in that both sponsor the big events of the year – here the Rose Parade, in Natchez there is an annual ball as well.
A small section of a wall tapestry. You didn’t think I’d ignore the textiles did you??
This fruit bowl is made entirely out of wax. Some very special process since in over 150 years it hasn’t melted in the hot humid summer heat.
A Childs’ rocking chair. The caning is still in decent shape.
What is this??? A baby walker, yes, even back 200 years ago they had this contraption! Who knew?
They store the gowns of the former presidents of the Club here. I hate to say this, most were pretty tacky. Not made of quality fabric. They do display this corset and hoop to show the undergarments that created that famous look of antebellum dresses. The guide talked about tightening the corset so much the women couldn’t breath. I corrected him. He didn’t like that – well I learned that in a preservation course. Well, to be kind I said – then the information about that has changed. the corset was like a bra – supportive, not restrictive, and the way to give the illusion of a tiny waist is the hoops, accentuate the hips and beyond and the waist looks small. I think that might have been the last comment I made about anything on the tour.
Someone donate this wonderful old hand crank sewing machine. The crank itself is missing. This is probably from around 1880. To me this is a thing of beauty!
It was a relatively short drive from Vicksburg to Natchez. We arrived on a Monday, right after an exciting weekend of hot-air balloons. I would have enjoyed that.
Natchez is the one city in the south that still have over a thousand antebellum structures. Not all fancy houses. This really struck me, the south had all the battles on its’ land and paid a huge price in the destruction of so many buildings – which means history. Which makes me all the angrier about removing confederate statues. Sure, many were put up post war -but I’m not buying the idea that slavery in the south is the source of all evil today. What I see is an arrogant clueless class who enjoys hurting people – even about their past.
So after a delicious and very southern lunch (yup, deep fried meat in a sandwich) we walked. I honestly don’t know what is antebellum and what may have been a Victorian house built later. To me this looks like later Victorian, but I don’t know. I do know that I love the two keyholes, on the front porch and on the second floor around the window.
All the design work! Love it. As we walked, about 5 little old ladies came out to talk to us – ah the friendliness of the south! Also, it could be that they were somewhat lonely and just happy to talk. One recommended a restaurant, in another case, a little dog followed us, a woman came out of a business to talk and asked us about the dog. Not ours. She immediately had her assistant put up a notice, either on FB or IG to ask if anyone is missing a dog – with picture of course. Ah, small southern towns!
One thing that is apparent is that right next door to a lovely mansion, I would find a rundown decaying house, or sometimes an empty lot. This isn’t Beverly Hills where if you can’t keep the property up to code – you are out!
Another outstanding home.
Another rundown shack.
This I know for sure is 20th century – its a Craftsman house! YAY!
Natchez is also on the bluffs, down at waters edge there are some stores and look! Cruise ships! Many had to cancel because the river is so low. Part of the crew stayed at the same hotel we were at. The city certainly needs these ships.
In the park behind one of the many churches, a touching memorial to the confederate dead. Please don’t let any woke people know about this – they will demand it be removed.
I don’t know the name of the soldier atop the monument, I don’t even know if he was general, if he was local or just a representative of the many brave men who fought here. Yes, the north did occupy Natchez, but there wasn’t any real battle here – so much of the city remains.
Right next to the monument, a lovely fountain. As well as wonderful life oak trees! Yes, it felt completely southern.
Before leaving on the trip, I listened to the Battle of Vicksburg from Michael Shaaras’ book about the battles of the civil war. Actually being there things really started to make sense. This is true of most things, standing on that ground everything makes so much more sense.
Many of the different canons used during the battle and siege, I don’t know which were southern and which were northern. I hired a guide, and boy was he enthusiastic. Maybe a little too much information. I know too many people here in LA, who’s families arrived long after the war who like to preen about the north winning the war and how we are on the good side. First of all, Los Angeles sided with the south – second of all – keep your mouth shut about things you know nothing about – these people also hang the Ukraine flag without any clue what is really going on. (I’m not siding with the Russians, just saying, these things are complicate.)
The park as a national war memorial was dedicated in the late 19th century and the states that participated in the battle put up monuments, both big and small. Oh, Don, our guide was great, he knew the battles well, he is thrilled that after a bloody civil war we still managed to become the UNITED STATES, rather than a collection of states under a loose federal government.
I didn’t get a lot of pictures, but the terrain is so hilly, steep and needless to say absolutely full of the kind of vegetation that south is known for.
So some basics, where Vicksburg is situation on the Mississipi – it controls the river. Both sides needed that major water way. The city itself is up on the bluffs, so they could shoot down on any army trying to come down the river. So General Grant did something very smart, he led the army through Louisiana – where he met no opposition and approached the city from the south. But Vicksburg held strong and the Southern army has been building forts on all the hilltops.
Plenty of bloody battles ensued. Needless to say, when it came time to build the monuments, the northern states had more money then the southern ones. Even so, Illinois outdid them all, recreating the Roman Pantheon. It is impressive inside and out.
With the gold eagle on top. btw, both side fought valiantly, and in many cases the leaders of the opposing sides had been classmates at West Point and fought side by side in the Mexican American War. Don shared minute details, war is never pretty, this was no exception.
A perfect replica, with the hole in the dome.
As is typical in these kind of battles, the north would gain the hill, just to be forced back by the south in the forts.
A beautiful mosaic of the seal of the state of Illinois. Btw, had things gone otherwise, Illinois might have joined with the south.
The White House, the only civilian house to remain standing in the massive battlefields. it did become headquarters for the north for a while, it has been refurbished back to what it looked like then.
Another small memorial, this time to Capt John Powell. After the war, with a bum arm, he floated down the Colorado river, through the Grand Canyon. He worked for the federal government for years. He basically claimed most of open western land as Federal land – not something I approve of at all. See, government has always been over reaching and over grabbing.
I didn’t get a picture of the statue to General Ord. This just shows how small the country was then. I know him as Lieutenant Edward Ord. During his stay in CA in 1949 he drew the layout for both Sacramento and Los Angeles. Our lore says he named Spring st in downtown LA for his love interest at the time – he called her Mi primavera – my spring.
Then he fought in different battles in the civil war, was in Vicksburg with Grant, and stayed on to help with the reconstruction. He was also at Appomottax for the signing of the end of the Civil War.
Looking from the battle fields toward the Yazoo river, the Mississippi is on the horizon. But it changed course since the war.
Attacking the forts wasn’t working, so Grant called for a siege , no food, no fresh water could reach the southern army. 3 weeks of that in the summer, and the Southern General surrendered – many felt he did so too soon. This battle and the battle at Gettysburg, which took place at the same time, turned the tide of the war to the northern side. Although it would be two more years of war and battles.
Just a few years ago this monument to the black soldiers from Mississippi was added to the park. It needs to be said that many freed slaves immediately went and fought for the north.
I know, there are still plenty of scars, but I see so much progress in the direction America has taken since this war. No place, no nation is perfect, but America is up there with the great nations.
The Cairo (pronounced Kay-ro) an iron clad shallow boat built by the north to travel the shallow waterways. There were nine such boats, each named for a city in Illinois where they were built. The Cairo was sunk in a shallow river, all sailors got off alive, but everything was left there. It was immediately covered up with debris and vegetation – so as not to fall into enemy hands. In the 1950s’ it was discovered – in very good shape – bogs have a way of preserving things.
The problem is that it sat out for 10 years and rot immediately set in. So yes, there is plenty of the old original wood, but, it’s mostly rotten.
I’m glad they are doing their best to keep it as a reminder of a difficult period in our history.
Next, onto Natchez, which was spared destruction because of Vicksburg, I have plenty to say about that.
A major reason for me to stop here was the battle of Vicksburg, during the Civil War, more about that next post, first the town and river.
There is a flood wall with many murals, this was one of them.
This year it’s major draught, the river is extremely low. But of course, everything is cyclical and the rain and river waters will return. Interesting to see how high the river can get.
More of the murals, I preferred the ones showing the old days.
I forget which president this was, but the mural is all about king cotton.
There is an interesting phenomenon, where dirt from Louisiana blows across the river and it created hills and a cliff edge on the Mississippi side. This becomes extremely important during the battle of Vicksburg.
Once again, a very old feel to the town. Since the battle ground became a national park late in the 19th century, there is no room for growth here. I’m sure there are plenty of successful towns around Vicksburg, but the city itself isn’t growing.
Although the 20s’ must have been good. This is a very large hotel. Nope, didn’t stay there, chose to stay in a Best Western on the highway. There is only so much ‘atmosphere’ I can take.
I think this is the old courthouse.
Here is the new one, good old Art Deco!
There was a little Coca Cola museum. It was all about how someone in town started bottling Coca Cola, up until then you could only buy it at a soda fountain. The company didn’t mind. Although once they saw how successful that was, they took over. I tried to get a picture of the original bottle, sorry, it was completely out of focus.
Nabisco, otherwise known as National Biscuit company started in New Jersey, but spread throughout the country. One of their old plants here in the warehouse/arts district in LA is now lofts.
My camera wasn’t focusing well, sorry. This became a restaurant – no we didn’t eat here, although maybe we should have. We ate at Cracker Barrel instead, a true southern institution – although we do have one at the Camarillo outlets in Ventura County.
I learned so much this trip. The Mississippi Delta is different from the Mississippi River Delta – that is completely in Lousiana, south of New Orleans.
The Delta is from Memphis to Vicksburg. It was part of our driving trip – I am so glad we drove and didn’t just view it from a river cruise.
Entering Mississippi, and yes, both Jazz and the blues are Americas’ music born and developed here. As we crossed the border there was a huge fireworks market place – I bet they get most of their business from Memphis.
On to Clarksdale, we had watched the episode about the Delta with Someone Feed Phill. He eats way too much, my stomach aches halfway through. But lets see what he recommends. Joel wrote down the names of the restaurants. Problem is, we arrived in Clarksdale too early – and the BBQ joint started by a Lebanese immigrant wasn’t open yet. Ok, so lets drive to the downtown. A very sad worn down area.
This was news to me, but then I’m not a big music followers.
Another wonderful old sign, old streetlamp and yes, old decaying building.
We were hungry and this is what the alleys of downtown Clarksdale look like. But then I heard music, hmm, this is why we walked into the back alley. Not only music, but a cafe! Win!
Under a typical corrugated iron roof, a Blues band is playing. They also sold T-shirts and music. Btw, the best music I heard during all of the trip. Not ear blasting loud. The song actually had a story to tell about a guy who wants to help out a woman who has been wronged by her man – as in – she chose the wrong guy.
The waitress, she looks much older than me, my guess is she is actually younger. The whole Delta is mostly black, with some old white people left. I’m sure that is an over simplification – but even Phill mentioned that in his show. People were super kind. These days the Delta is cotton and gambling.
I wanted to stop at two pottery workshops, but it being Sunday, both were closed. Driving beyond the main road into the little downs showed nice communities – I didn’t see the abject poverty people talk about in the south. Not saying it’s not there, but I didn’t see it.
More of that alley, trust me to find beauty in the decay.
In general, I really dislike graffiti, who knows, maybe in this case they were asked to paint this. That is what I’m going with. And maybe I’m just too old to know what this represents.
I know the Virgin of Guadalupe when I see her. Those roses are a sure giveaway. So I went to check about the Mexican population here. First of all – there are shootings in town, not surprising, but it is a small town. Second of all, a number of Mexican restaurants – so they have moved here for work. No, I was not going to try a Mexican restaurant in Mississippi. I’m that kind of snob.
We stayed at the famous Peabody, a very good thing to do, since Memphis is pretty sketchy.
Yes, the elegant hotel in downtown Memphis, a true oasis. And of course what it is most famous for these days is the ducks.
At first the hotel was known for the fountain itself, carved out of one block of marble. But then in the 20s’ the manager and friends went duck hunting, they brought back some live ones and put them in the fountain. A few years later a tradition grew of the march of the ducks. They live in a lovely home up on the roof, and each morning they come down in the elevator and march along a red carpet to the fountain, every afternoon they go back up.
Of course it is a fun lovely production, any kids around are brought into the action. Oh, and the French restaurant on premises does not serve duck!
Then there was nearby Beale st.
We went in the late afternoon, it had a sort of forced feel to it. Two blocks, blocked off to traffic and security abounds. Unlike Lower Broadway in Nashville, it sort of felt like Memphis was really trying to keep this going.
Every city has their emblem, many do use the guitar. Not mad about Jonny Cash, although he is more country than blues.
I did find Elvis’ music note on the sidewalk.
There are cool murals around.
There definitely are many of the old buildings and may are restaurants with music. We were able to get into BB Kings’ Cafe without much wait. The food was very good, so was the music – even if it was a little loud. By the time we left the line was down the street. At least Beale St is using it’s real history, unlike City Walk at Universal Studio that has created a complete fake street. Although, after 20 some year, even city walk street is a real destination with a lot of people wandering around. They too have a BB King Cafe.
Exit through the gift shop – always and forever.
Sure, it is fun and bright at night on Beale street. I’m not upset about the security at all. And I wish for Memphis that this area would grow, but it probably won’t
Kudos to the horse and carriages. The city isn’t dying, it just feels depressed.
We went to Graceland, this was our one rainy day. No, didn’t see the home, we would have had to wait 2.5 hours – no thank you. So we walked through the museums and gift shops instead. A lot of fun paraphernalia, beautiful cars, and crazy outfits. I may have mentioned this before, Elvis’ later costumes were not at all to the standard of Nudie, but they worked well on stages in Las Vegas.
I really wanted to see the nicer neighborhoods of Memphis, not the suburbs, actual Memphis and I found some. Lovely old homes, many decorated for Halloween.
This of course was my favorite! A rainbow skeleton Unicorn!! And an American flag. I also found a nearby Middle eastern restaurant. The owner was Palestinian – and boy did he make wonderful food. One waiter was a local girl and the guy was Haitian. Have I told you how much I love America???
I understand how walking around any downtown has a grungy feel, even Nashville did. But it was more pronounced here. We then took a long walk and ended up at that Bass Pro Shop Pyramid. Here I am looking back at the bridge we walked over. There were plenty of good things to see, like a street fair with all kinds of booths – every city has these. There was a group of people who had an Alice in wonderland gathering – I know cuz I asked them what it was about. And everyone was proud to tell me who they were. So there are definite positive vibes in Memphis, but I wasn’t sorry to leave.
Finally, the cotton museum. In the old cotton exchange, that is not a real person up there – although it used to be. These days the trading of cotton futures happens online. Of course I loved this – I love textiles and learning more about the history. It’s not all bad and I love working with cotton, in my crafts and in the clothes I wear.
And interesting tidbit I learned, Delta airlines started as a cropdusting company in the cotton fields of the Mississippi Delta. I mentioned that to friends who’s son works for the airline – they are going to ask him if he knew that.
From here, we go on to the Mississippi Delta itself.
About four hours drive and we arrive in Memphis. Since it was a lovely day, we immediately went and found the Big River crossing. In 2016 a wonderful project was completed, one can now walk across the Mississippi River, from Tennessee to Arkansas and back. Its’ about a mile each way.
View from the bridge, and what is that pyramid? I asked the same question, it was built as a basketball venue, and now is a Bass Pro Shop, we did end up in there, what a crazy place, huge sporting good store with a hotel, and indoor rivers that had fish and even a crocodile. Actually more fun than most museums these days.
Here is a nice close up.
Love all the deer, Elk and moose heads, I’m sure they are all very real
The sign says, you love may be eternal but your lock isn’t, they must come by regularly to remove locks. Meanwhile, once we got to New Orleans – they may not like the locks but look at this.
I understand that in Paris they removed all the locks from the original bridge, time for people to find a new hobby. Anyway back to the bridge.
Part of it was covered, probably necessary on a hot summer day.
Arkansas owns a much bigger part of the bridge.
Because I love images of large metal structures, it is sort of hard to see, but those are the cars, crossing as well.
And a train, everyone crosses at this bridge. there were other people walking along with us, nice to see that people use the bridge.
The river is extremely low, so many of the large cargo ships simply can’t come up or down the river. Someone said that hurricane season brings summer storms to the area – but this year, the only hurricane to make it to the Gulf of Mexico was Ian, that devastated Florida, so it was a very dry summer for the Mississippi basin and it shows.
Arriving in Arkansas, there isn’t a town right there, some sort of nature park.
My feet on Arkansas soil, you just have to take my word for it!
In the 19th century, fairs and expositions were the rage, some local, some world fairs. in 1897, for Tennessees centennial, such an exposition was held in what later became known as Centenial Park. Everything was removed except for the replica of the Parthenon.
Nashville called itself the Athens of the south, so it made sense. The building fell into disrepair, since it wasn’t built with permanent materials. So the city recreated the building to almost exact measurements. In 1931 it opened, complete with a magnificent statue of the Goddess Athena.
Our first view was from the tour bus, we like to do a full round and then chose where to get off. This was a must.
But first:
First we stopped at Marathon motor company, Once again, wonderful old machinery with cool shops and a nice deli. I even tasted some whiskey in the tasting room of a new brewery – meh – way too sweet. Oh well.
Then we walked about a mile and a half to the Parthenon. Guess what, not a lot of people walk in Nashville – not once you are out of the main downtown areas. Not much different from LA.
The small dark entrance is how one gets in, the museum itself is in the basement.
The pediment and the griffins are as close a recreation as one can get.
And then you go inside….
…and meet Athena herself! Created from 1982-1990, out of gypsum cement and fiberglass, she stands 41’10” tall. Her base goes down into the basement of the building, to give her support.
Oh yes, that is real gold leaf – as in 8 pounds of gold. And yes, Medusa and snakes are part of the story.
The snake goes from front to back.
On her breast plate and on the shield we see Medusa, and no, no-one turned to stone. although I think these are some the battles that Athen helped with.
She holds the Nike, in this case, 6’4″ tall, that is a whole foot taller than I am.
Seen from the back.
Have I mentioned how much I love American ingenuity! I just love this, no it’s not tacky. In Ancient Greece it would have been painted in all kinds of garish colors – we did them better – Gold!
The joke around here is that the national bird of Nashville is the crane, the same can be said about a lot of cities – like Los Angeles- they are building like crazy.
The first evening out I see this, now that is an interesting building. Only later did I realize how interesting it actually is.
I was looking at it from the side, but look from the front!
Here it is with all those cranes, well, just one, but believe me, there were plenty others. Turns out the Amazon has built part of it’s new headquarters right in downtown Nashville. the locals are complaining about the traffic, the congestion, all the newcomers. Yeah, that is what happens, welcome to progress.
another angles, this time from a bridge.
from the bridge, old buildings and new.
Speaking of bridges, I love em. We walked across the Cumberland River on this one.
What gorgeous weather we had in Nashville!
with a close up of the girders, because I love human ingenuity and creativity. I don’t want to go and live like a savage in nature. Nature is very cruel, all our modern amenities make like so much better.
There was a tour to the country music hall of fame, where they have so many of Nudies’ costumes on display. A nice Jewish boy from Eastern Europe who made it big making beautiful extravagant outfits – mostly for country singers. Later we saw Elvis’ outfits, nice but without the same attention to detail. Nudie worked right here in North Hollywood, looks like the stars had to come to him.
Aside from the bus tour, which was great, we toured RCA Studio B. An old music exec was our guide and she was great.
The king recorded many of his songs here. Btw, the studio is small and quite sparse – interesting what you can do with out major frills
Love her wigs. later on the drive we listened to a book she co-wrote with James Patterson. I hated it, we didn’t finish and I don’t care. Joel can finish on his own. I’m so over the rags to riches with all the miscommunications that make that possible. Even if Dolly has a big part. Lately I’ve been reading more of the classics – so much better. Yes, I am a snob.
In the recording studio, at the famous piano that everyone used.
Yup, me too!
And next the Parthenon, because America is great and we build things.
