Sewing – Page 12 – No Idle hands here

Back to sewing

Have I mentioned that I am slightly addicted to my EPP hexie quilt? No, I haven’t dropped out of life completely, but my daytime crafting hours have been taken over by this obsession. So I decided I need a change, time to get some sewing done.

I had bought these two fabrics in Seattle, thinking that I’d make my granddaughter another dress. Then I got selfish and decided to keep it for myself. I have made myself many dresses this summer, wasn’t in the mood for a skirt. So I decided a quick easy project would be an apron. I went through my large pattern stash and pulled the materials together.I am beginning to realize that when a pattern only has a cute drawing, that is because the photograph of the finished item just isn’t very good. You’ll see why in a minute.It felt good to use both the serger and the sewing machine. I used this yellow grosgrain ribbon I had on hand because the little pink birds do have yellow wings. I love being able to use materials I have on hand.I can live with a skirt with no pocket but aprons have to have them!View from the back, very nice, but I’m sure you want to see the front! And that is where the problem lies.The bib is too big, too shapeless and I would have been better off having the straps come off the edge. Of course by the time I figured this out, I had already sewn the top stitching! It’s an apron, it will be fine, but if I ever make this again, I’m changing the pattern. This is what I mean about no photographs, the line drawing is very deceiving.

And now for the things I do like.The pattern called for a button. I measured carefully, to make sure it fits nicely and put in a snap instead. I had a little bit of orange rickrack in my stash, always fun to find a good home for it.

And now, I need to get back to sewing some more hexies….

Leah

Threading the needle

Once upon a time, when I was young, I could thread any needle, read small print and bead with tiny beads.

Those days alas are in my past. Now it’s reading glasses and any kind of tool I can find to – thread the needle.I think we are all familiar with this fellow, our Roman Guy. This simple tool is ubiquitous in all of our sewing baskets. Yes it works, but you still need pretty sharp eyes to get the wire diamond through the eye of the needle. The smaller the needle, the harder it is and if your needle is tiny the wire won’t go through. This is the simplest of it’s type, google and you will find all kind of iterations of this type.

Next up, the Clover Needle Threader. these come in two sizes, one for fine needles and one for larger ones. I bought the fine needle threader. Simple operation, put the needle in the slot, drape the thread and push the lever a few times. Then gingerly, remove the needle and hope the loop of thread comes with it. Pull the loop until one end remains. Then cut with the handy cutter.

I’ve been happy with this contraption until a quilting friend introduced me to this guy.The Bohin Needle threader. Bohin is a French company that specializes in superior tools for the home sewer and quilter.

As you can see, one tool that will thread two sizes of needles. My grandson was my handy little helper. (only way to get these photos is to have him be my assistant). As he depresses the brown button, a small lever pushes the thread through the eye of the needle, similar to how the purple one works.Keep on pushing and a loop of thread appears.Ok, I helped things along, the loop is big now. At this point, you pull on the loop until one end emerges. Now, when you remove the needle, it is completely threaded!This threader also has the handy cutter, which means this can easily go through airport security and one can get some hand work done on a plane.There is a magnet on the bottom, so when you lose your needle, and who hasn’t, just wave it over the table or floor and let the magnet find the missing needle.

I’m a big believer in having the right tool for the job.

Leah

Another striped dress

Using the second piece of knit fabric from Michael Levine’s loft I made another summer dress. This time using a pattern that can only be made with a knit. I’ve seen all kinds of versions of this around town and wanted in on the fun.The pattern called for using just one knit. Having discovered knit lining, I used it instead. I need to go get a lot more of this simply fabric – I find it makes sewing with knits so much more professional. Here I’m laying out the sections.My only issue here is that the top tier isn’t very different from the one bellow it. Sure on the pattern they used different colors of stripes. Oh well, I think this is something only I notice.This dress is all about the negative easy, it really hugs the body. Another reason I’m glad I used the lining fabric.From the back the fact that the top two tiers are so similar is even more obvious. Oh well, I never see my back.The tiers were sewn on with a straight stitch. The dress itself was pretty much assembled on my serger. There was a moment when I considered getting the fancy serger that can also function as a cover stitch machine, but I think I can live without that.Bound the neckline and armhole with the fabric itself, then cut close to the stitch line, this fabric won’t unravel. I like how neat and clean the dress looks inside and out.

I have really expanded my collection of knit dresses this summer. Best thing, either the fabric was free or less than $5 a dress. I don’t sew in order to save money, but when it happens, I’m thrilled.

Leah

Comfy Knit Maxi

I don’t know why I don’t have more maxi dresses. They really are very comfortable for our hot summers. If made out of knit fabric, all the more so. Of course I set out to remedy the situation.

On a recent trip to the garment district I picked up two knits for $6 at Michael Levine’s Loft. I recently learned a new sewing term Frankenpattern. Aleah, came up with the name. I met her at the sewist meeting in LA and it was from her stash that I snagged the Jay McCarroll knit print I used recently.

Going through my vast pattern collection I decided to use this as a basis for my dress.This has been in my stash for a while, so can I consider this free?Version B is what really caught my eye. This pattern is designed for woven fabrics. That is the beauty of Frankenpattern, at some point one gets good enough at sewing that mixing and matching pattern pieces. Or adapting a pattern from woven to knit is an easy thing to do.I cut the bodice a size smaller. I didn’t want to deal with pleats, so used gathers instead. No, the placement of the gathers isn’t perfect. This is just an easy knock around dress – perfection is not called for.

This isn’t a symmetrical fabric, so I felt this placement of the stripes on the center triangle was most pleasing. I also am happy with symmetry of the diagonal pieces. One thing I have been doing lately is lining the bodice with a thin cotton knit fabric. This gives clean edges to the armholes and neckline as well as giving a little more structure to the bodice.Light and airy from the back as well.

A very successful dress from $3 worth of fabric, an old pattern and a few hours to cut and sew.

Leah

Sewing for Joel

It is obvious that I love making things, but mens’ clothes – not that interesting. Unless it is an Hawaiian stye shirt in wonderful fabrics. I chose Islander Shirt #208 and this camping themed fabric.
My pattern is a few years old, I notice that on the new pattern, there is no option for a collar with stand – which is what I like. I better take very good care of this pattern. Janet Pray has an excellent Craftsy class where she teaches industry sewing techniques for the home sewer. Aside from excellent instructions, the Islander company has good men’s patterns, not pants, but some very nice shirts.I made the shirt in a day. Since it had been at least 2 years since I had used this pattern, I really paid attention to the instructions. I should have done so before. The front plackets are slightly different, which caused me problems in the past. Live and learn, this one came together perfectly.Janet makes it very clear that one should use shirting fabric, softer and lighter than quilting fabric. Well, turns out that Joel prefers the thicker quilting fabric. Which is great for me, many more print options. Notice the nice top stitching, the clean buttonholes and most importantly, the perfect match of the pocket on the shirt front.
The back has two pleats under the placket, makes the shirt a little roomier.On the model, very handsome model if I may say so myself.Roomy, comfortable and I am very impressed that the two fronts meet in perfect alignment.Both of us are thrilled. I with the professional look of the shirt, Joel is just happy to have another comfy unique shirt for summer. Also, he loves bragging that I made it for him. Win-Win!

Leah

couldn’t resist

JoAnn’s sells fabric that is already shirred with elastic. Very easy to make a sun dress or a skirt. I didn’t intend to buy this fabric, but I couldn’t resist. 1 yard of fabric, two shoulder straps, one seam and voila! A very happy granddaughter.

Leah

Stash Busting

As any sewer, knitter, crocheter knows – we all accumulate a stash. Think of it as your basic material supply. What painter goes out and buys new paint for every project? Same with us, we need a certain amount of fabric or yarn on hand when inspiration or simply the need to make something hits.

To be fair, my stash isn’t enormous and in the last few weeks I have been very busy sewing only from my stash. First these are the patterns I used.The McCalls is being used for the second time – how is that for being thrifty? The Simplicity and the Vogue I have had for about a year. I got this fabric at our LA Sewist meet up a few weeks ago. It is from Aleah, I can see from her blog that she loves knits, but also loves them in stripes or solids. So I guess this just wasn’t her thing. The fabric is from Jay McCarroll’s fabric line, The winner of the very first Project runway. Glad to see that he is doing well.Back view, simple sheath with darts for shaping.These two fabrics I bought a few months ago at Sew Modern, I’m sure the blue one was on sale and I matched the small print to it. I bought it thinking I’d make a dress out of the fabrics this summer and I did! I really like how this dress came out.It’s a very simple dress, but the small details of the bodice and the skirt is really what makes this dress. It was very easy to make, I just love this detail.

Cute back, simple but well fitted.Always take time to smell the roses, or the lemon flowers.

The last dress. My friend Lynne gave some Thai silk, as in silk she bought in Thailand years ago. This is the second dress being made from that gift. As befitting the silk, the pattern is somewhat complicated.I probably should make more muslins, I don’t. I find that I fit myself as I go along and I’m getting much better at doing that.Love the gathers in the back of the dress. It just adds a little oomph.Close up of the detail of the neckline, this is what sold me on this pattern. Some asymmetric interest in what is basically another sheath dress.

So that’s it, next big project, a baby quilt for new upcoming grandson.

Leah

Tools of the Trade

Anyone who works with their hands will tell you that it’s the special tools of the trade that make the work both easier and fun. So from time to time I will be talking about tools unique to the fiber-arts. This time it’s sewing and quilting.

So what is my favorite tool?The Seam Ripper!! I have never sewn anything where I didn’t need to use this little tool!. Always, without fail at least one seam needs to be ripped out.

Lesson no. 1 for new sewers – an expert seamstress is not someone who doesn’t make mistakes – WE ALL MAKE MISTAKES! It is someone who takes it in stride and knows how to correct the mistakes.

The most important use of the seam ripper is to rip out seams! Of course it also comes handy when opening button holes.

As you can see, I have a few examples here. Looking at the simple blue ripper – it’s a very basic tool, one long thin pointy blade – enables you to get in under the stitch and rip. the shorter end is tipped with a bead – to protect you and your fingers.This is my favorite ripper today. The handle is substantial and the cover has a wonderful rubber bauble that makes it easy to rub away at all those loose threads. The end of the ripper has a smaller rubber section – for the same purpose.My one complaint? When open, the cover does not fit onto the back of the ripper, so I never use that big lovely ‘eraser’. It effectively becomes two tools. Since I have a way of misplacing my tools on my work table, it is hard enough for me to find the ripper, to then try and find the eraser is too frustrating. So I find that I only use the seam ripper and the small eraser on it’s end.The blue one is fine, but a little small and uncomfortable to hold. This is a duel purpose seam ripper, came out a good 10 years before the Seamfix. I guess the idea was that you could slide out either the ripper or the tweezers. A very uncomfortable tool. So why do I still have this? Because invariably I can’t find any of my seam rippers except this one, so it gets a lot of use – with a lot of swearing at the same time.This is a new tool to me – the eyebrow shaver. Yes it is intended for eyebrows but isn’t it wonderful when someone figures out how to adapt other tools to our sewing purposes!

As you can see, it is a wire wrapped razor-blade with a nice long handle. I learned about this tool while taking a Craftsy class on Paper piecing. When sewing paper-pieced patches together one uses a very small stitch length. It isn’t easy to get in with the traditional sized seam-ripper. So gently sawing with this tool shreds the seam. You are left with a lot of messy small thread, pull out the eraser from the Seamfix to take care of that.

I hope this gives you food for thought and any other seam ripping suggestions, please share!

Leah

LA Blogger-Sewing Meetup

First of all, thank you Erin, Laurie, Jill, Kathy for doing such an amazing job putting this event together. Sewers, costumers, crafters from all over SoCal came to the event. From the central coast to San Diego and many of us in between.With, Lorin, Kathy, Amy and Jo. I only brought my little camera and shot a few pictures, I got too busy talking with people and neglected the camera after a while.I don’t know any of the names, 40 people is a large group, I didn’t get a chance to meet everyone.Stephanie, Lorin and Laurie, one of the intrepid organizers who came up from San Diego.Then it was over to the Fabric store, I had intended to take pictures of us inside, but I got involved in the swap instead.Today was my winning day, my name was drawn for the Moneta Dress, already owning that pattern I threw my name back in the hat. I then won Mabel, a simple skirt pattern. Pam asked to trade for this, I was more than happy to make the trade. Have to look closely to see if I actually make this.
As if I don’t have enough patterns, I picked these up from the swap.Also from the swap, lace and knit as well as this funky 50’s looking knit, both will make easy summer dresses or tops.

I have never had fabric from Australia – it really has a different vibe. Don’t know if it will become a garment or part of a quilt. The two other fabrics are destined for the quilting fabric stash for sure.

On a final note, it was Knit in public day, so before I met all the sewers, I spent an hour with my knitting buddies, we had a much larger group than a normal Saturday at the Farmers Market. Thank you Ellen for having the picture taken on your phone. Also, I love your photoshop skills.

Leah

Balancing the giving

Having just given Aytan the quilt, I had to make something for Shira. To be fair, she gets a lot of handmade dresses from me. I could make some more shirts for Aytan, but that can wait.

Of course I already have a collection of children’s patterns, mainly little girl clothes. What I like about this is the semi circle skirt. It flows differently from a gathered skirt, I like it on myself and I like it on little girls. I collected my materials, yes, this fabric is Liberty of London that I bought at Pearl Soho Orange County, CA. It was no cheaper there than other places, but I think it may have been the bolt end so I got a break on the price. Liberty has wised up to us quilters, this is from their quilting line.I do not like the facings for the neckline and armholes that home sewing patterns have you do. I either line the bodice, or use bias binding. It can be either decorative on the outside or pulled inside and top stitched. In order to do that I needed to remove the seam allowance from the fabric. This time I am using fold-over elastic for that purpose.It was easy and worked well, next time I may stretch it a little more so I don’t get that wavy look. I didn’t have lime green thread, but I think the top stitching in the aqua works well.Exposed zipper are still very popular. I’ve seen zippers that are so decorative, they are made to be installed this way. I feel this upgrades the dress from pretty – to pretty stylish.That wasn’t enough for me, I had to do more. Lately I’ve been playing with EPP, English Paper piecing. I will have to write a whole post about that. Here is the wonderful Fisker paper cutter and the resulting hexagon flower.Using the same aqua thread to attach to the dress. This time I ‘quilted’ each hexie. At the age of 5 I was taught how to cross stitch by a wonderful German woman. She told me that the back of the work must be as neat and clean as the front. I try and do that with everything I make. Having a serger makes this very easy when sewing.The dress looks very nice on a hanger, but ten times better on an adorable model. I had given her the dress the night before, of course she wore it then and demanded to wear it again – WIN!Looking good from the back.One more, just because she is so cute and models the dress so well.

Leah